component-EW-WU101

The EW-WU101 D-fly allows your Di2 system to communicate wirelessly with your head unit and smartphone or tablet. It'll let you display currently selected gears

manual-di2-ew-wu101

EW-WU101 User Manual

declaration-of-confirmity-di2-ew-wu101

EW-WU101 Declaration of Confirmity

component-EW-WU101_b

The unit has two e-Tube ports, allowing it to be placed between the rear derailleur and junction B. It is meant to be installed on the seat stay, close to the rear derailleur.

## BT-DN110 / BM-DN100 required
The EW-WU111 / EW-WU101 wireless units are meant to be used with the BT-DN110 / BM-DN100 battery/mount and will not work with the older SM-BTR2, SM-BMR1 or SM-BMR2 batteries. The older SM-EWW01 will work with the older batteries, but only supports ANT+ (no BluetoothLE).

### E-Tube app
In order to connect the Wireless Unit to your mobile phone you will need either the [E-Tube Project mobile app](https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/e-tube/project.html) or the [E-Tube RIDE app](https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/e-tube/ride.html). The latter is meant to be used on E-Bikes, but it'll work on up-to-date road bikes too. Note that if you have never updated your Wireless Unit then it will only work with E-Tube Project.

Pairing a Garmin is relatively simple. The video below shows the process on a Garmin EDGE 830.

<YouTube videoId="TjMnFAZmLP4" />

The same can be done on a Wahoo ELEMNT device:

<YouTube videoId="LPguRsdQ3j0" />

And of course, plenty of other bike computers: Sigma, Lezyne, Bryton, Mio, and others all support Di2. You generally add the Di2 system through the *sensors* menu / page.

The Shimano [EW-WU111](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/) and EW-WU101 bring bluetooth/ANT+ connectivity to road and gravel bikes. In this guide I’ll help you install the [EW-WU111 Wireless Unit](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/).

## Where on the bike?
The [EW-WU111 Wireless Unit](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/) is a small, inline component. You could, in theory, install it anywhere. Shimano have a couple of recommendations regarding the location of the [Wireless Unit](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/).

- Install it near the front of the bicycle to ensure a good signal between the Wireless Unit and bicycle computer.
- Install the Wireless Unit **outside** the frame
- Do **not** install it on the side of the bicycle. If you do, it could get damaged in a crash or when the bicycle tips over.
 
Note that while Shimano strongly recommends you install it ***outside*** the frame, I haven't ever experienced problems with installing the unit in a seat post, handlebar or frame. Just be aware that this is not the *Shimano way* and you may experience a weak signal, depending on the structure and density of your frame or handlebars.

I have installed the [Wireless Unit](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/)  in my handlebars, tucked away in one of the drops. This makes the bike look a bit cleaner – and I like clean looking bikes.

## Choices..
Because the [EW-WU111](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/)  is an inline component you can place it virtually anywhere. I will show you the most common choices. Note that if you already have an inline 2-port junction (EW-JC200) installed on your bike then you could replace that with the [EW-WU111](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/). They are roughly the same size and shape and doing it this way saves you from having to buy an [electric wire](/component/di2-electric-wire-ew-sd50).

## Before the electric wire enters the frame
Most older 11-speed bikes feature a below-the-stem Junction A ([SM-EW90](/component/below-the-stem-junction-a-sm-ew90/)). Newer 11-speed bikes usually have the [bar-end junction](/component/frame-handlebar-junction-a-ew-rs910/) hidden in the handlebars. In both these cases it is a good idea to put the [Wireless Unit](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/)  inline – right before the [electric wire](/component/di2-electric-wire-ew-sd50) enters the frame.

![EW-WU111 Wireless Unit wiring](https://assets.bettershifting.com/install_ewrs910_wiring_jc130_0e52bc09de.png)

The Junction A or the Y-connector cable (both colored yellow) connects both shifters. You connect the [Wireless Unit](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/)  (colored blue) to either component using a short electric wire. Then connect the other end of the [Wireless Unit](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/)  to the electric wire entering the frame.

The shortest electric wire you can get is 150mm long and Shimano make them in 50mm increments, all the way up to 1600mm. Measure the distance to make sure you order the correct length.

## Underneath the handlebar tape
Another way to install the [Wireless Unit](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/)  would be underneath the handlebar tape. I do not recommend this method, but I’ve seen people do this.

If you’d like to try this method you’ll need quite thick handlebar tape and put the [Wireless Unit](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/)  somewhere your hands won’t touch. The Wireless Unit may seem small and slim, but it’s actually about the same size as a barrel adjuster and big enough to be in the way if placed in the wrong spot.

As for connecting it to the rest of the system, you can run a short electric wire from the shift lever to the [Wireless Unit](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/) . The D-fly has two ports, but you are not required to connect both of them.

## Hidden in the handlebars
My favorite position for the [Wireless Unit](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/)  is hidden away somewhere in the handlebars. If your bike has the [bar-end junction EW-RS910](/component/frame-handlebar-junction-a-ew-rs910) installed this is easy – just take one of the junction box wires out and use a 150mm [electric wire](/component/di2-electric-wire-ew-sd50) to install the Wireless Unit.

<LImage src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/di2_setup_without_jc130_40e60a69c0.png" alt="EW-WU111 in handlebars" width="1200" height="714" />

Note that while this is an *inline* unit, you do *not* have to connect both ends. It is perfectly fine to just use one side of the EW-WU111, as shown in the image above. Be sure to connect a dummy plug to the unused end though.

Alternatively, run an electric wire from either shift lever into the handlebars and connect the [Wireless Unit](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/)  that way. Some things to keep in mind:

- Make sure the [Wireless Unit](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/)  can’t rattle around your handlebars. Wrap it in foam, tape or anything else you can think of to prevent it from making noise as you ride.
- Some handlebars allow you to easily run electric wires inside them. Some don’t. Your mileage may vary when attempting this method.

Shane Miller / GPLama did a nice video on tidying up his Giant, hiding the [Wireless Unit](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/)  in the handlebar nicely and also connecting the [SW-R600 Di2 climbing shifter](/component/di2-handlebar-climbing-shifter-sw-r600):

<YouTube videoId="Wi6k8V6UOow" />

About that firmware update
Depending on when your [Wireless Unit](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/) was manufactured you may be forced to update its firmware before you can use it. There seem to be two versions out there:

- A recent version with updated firmware. You can update this unit and change its settings using E-Tube for Windows.
- An older version that cannot be ‘seen’ or updated in E-Tube until it has been updated using the mobile app.

Now.. if you have the second of these two you’ll know because it cannot be used until its firmware has been updated using the mobile app. This process can fail. If it does your bike will not respond and you’ll have to follow these steps to recover it.

When you use the mobile app to connect to the [Wireless Unit](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/)  for the first time it will ask you to change the passkey. You do not have to. You can press the ‘X‘ or Cancel.

If you do change the passkey it is very important to delete the connection information from your phone.

- Tap the menu icon at the top right of E-Tube Project
- Select “Disconnect BluetoothLE” from the menu
- You can now close the app
- Go to your phone’s bluetooth device list and ‘forget‘ the EW-WU111 / EW-WU101

These steps are necessary because the software does not store the new passkey on your phone, but rather caches the old passkey. Forgetting your [Wireless Unit](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/)  from the phone’s Bluetooth device list fixes this.

## Know a better method? Having problems?
The methods mentioned on this page are not the only ways to install the [Wireless Unit](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/) , but they are the most common. Of course each bike and rider are unique, so these methods may not work for you.

I'd love to hear your feedback, ideas and comments. [Send me a message](/contact/) and I’ll get back to you as soon as I can.

ew-wu111-installation-guide-wiring

There are many possibilities for installing the EW-WU111 Di2 D-Fly Wireless Unit. This guide explains how to do that.

Installation Guide: Wireless Unit / D-fly (EW-WU111)

thumbnail_wireless_guide_preview_image.jpg

wireless_guide_preview_image.jpg

This complete wireless (BluetoothLE / ANT) Troubleshooting guide will answer your setup questions and help you overcome your BluetoothLE/ANT troubles.

Di2 Wireless Module // BluetoothLE/ANT guide

If you're on 10-speed or 11-speed Di2, you may have been reading my posts on the Wireless Unit or Information Display and wondered whether or not to buy one. After all, it’s an optional component, costs about $85 / €85 and your bike will work just fine without it. In this post, I’ll discuss its features so that you can decide for yourself.

**Note: 12-speed Di2 (105, Ultegra, and Dura-Ace)** come with BluetoothLE/ANT functionality out of the box. You **do not** need a D-fly if you are on 12-speed Di2.

## Wireless Unit, D-Fly and Display.. what’s the difference?
Shimano have been making Wireless Units for road bikes ever since the DURA-ACE 9070 series. The very first model was the [SM-EWW01](/component/deprecated-ant-wireless-unit-d-fly-sm-eww01/). They later released the [EW-WU101](/component/d-fly-seatstay-wireless-unit-ew-wu101/) and the [2-port in-line EW-WU111](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/) Wireless Unit.

While all of the above D-fly units are compatible with mountain bike Di2 systems, you are far more likely to see either the [XT SC-MT800](/component/xt-display-junction-sc-mt800/) or [XTR SC-M9051 Information Displays](/component/xt-firebolt-shifter-sw-m8050/) on an MTB.

Besides the obvious differences (display vs not-a-display), it’s worth noting that all of these components can be used on road/mtb/gravel bikes. You can use an Information Display on your road bike – it replaces Junction A and the [EW-WU111 Wireless Unit](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/). You can use the [EW-WU111](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/) on your mtb. All of them offer exactly the same Bluetooth LE / ANT features.

## Synchronized shifting on mountain bikes
Another difference is related to synchronized shifting. While road bikes only need updated firmware and either the [BT-DN110 battery](/component/internal-battery-bt-dn110/) or [BM-DN100 battery mount](/component/external-battery-mount-bm-dn100/), mountain bikes also **require** a System Information Display in order to enable synchronized shifting.

![wireless unit versions](https://assets.bettershifting.com/wireless_unit_why_get_one_versions_2572486c83.jpeg)

## What features? What can they do?
The Di2 wireless units and displays allow you to connect your Di2 system to plenty of Bluetooth/ANT compatible devices. They let you connect to your bike computers, including (but not limited to):

- [Wahoo ELEMNT series](https://wahoofitness.com/)
- [Garmin EDGE (and others)](https://garmin.com/)
- [Sigma ROX](https://www.sigmasport.com/en/produkte/fahrrad-computer/)
- [Bryton](https://www.brytonsport.com/)
- [Lezyne](https://ride.lezyne.com/collections/gps-devices)
- [Magellan / Mio](https://www.mio.com/en_gb/products/navigation/cycling-navigation)
- [Pioneer](http://pioneer-cyclesports.com/)
- [Stages](https://www.stagescycling.eu/stages-dash/)

If you have a Di2 compatible device you can use it to view the current gear, gear ratio, Di2 battery level, and even use the buttons on your shifters to interact with the bike computer itself – change the display, current lap, zoom or current page. Most devices will also export gear and shifting data, allowing you to [analyze that data](/view-di2-shifting-statistics-using-di2stats/) using external apps or sites.

![wahoo app gears](https://assets.bettershifting.com/wireless_unit_why_get_one_wahoo_stats_gears_2e41507ae0.png)

## Lights… action
Connectivity is not just limited to bike computers. You can also connect your bike to lights, action cameras and of course your mobile phone or tablet.

![action cam and lights](https://assets.bettershifting.com/wireless_unit_why_get_one_cm200_ut800_91fc72d3c5.png)

When paired with the [Garmin Varia UT800 light](https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/550821) for example, you can use the shifter buttons to turn the light on or off, or change the current light mode. If you own a [Shimano CM-2000, CM-1100 or CM-1000 action camera](http://www.shimano-sportcamera.com/en/product.html) you can start and stop filming without even having to touch the camera itself, just by pairing it with a Di2 system. Connectivity is not limited to these devices, but most lights/cameras do not support Di2 connectivity. Check your light/camera documentation to see whether it connects to Di2 via ANT or Bluetooth.

## About the e-Tube app
Another thing the Wireless connectivity lets you do is connect to your mobile phone or tablet to use the [Shimano e-Tube app](https://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/). It lets you do everything the Windows application does, but without having to bring your laptop with you on a ride. This makes it really easy to change or tweak some settings as you go, deciding on the perfect setup for your bike while riding it. Some of the things you can do with the mobile app are:

- Set up, change and tweak synchronized-shifting
- View the installed components
- View the battery level
- Check components for errors
- Update firmware
- Save your favorite settings in presets

## Should you get one?
In the end it’s up to you to decide whether or not the Wireless unit or Information Display is of use to you. Its day-to-day use is limited, especially if you do not own a Shimano action cam or compatible light. How often do you need to change settings when you’re out on the bike, really? What it does provide is [statistics](/view-di2-shifting-statistics-using-di2stats/) and a direct connection between your bike computer and Di2 system.

![gear information on a wahoo elemnt BOLT](https://assets.bettershifting.com/wireless_unit_why_get_one_BOLT_gear_information_964c203c13.png)

As for my opinion… I ride bikes equipped with the [EW-WU111 Wireless Unit](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/) / D-fly and the [SC-MT800 display](/component/xt-display-junction-sc-mt800/) and I love it. Having the battery level and current gear on your screen is great and if you’re a data-geek like me you’ll have a lot of fun looking at your shifting statistics after big rides like the Marmotte or Maratona. Would I pick the [SC-MT800](/component/xt-display-junction-sc-mt800/) over the [EW-WU111](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/) for a road bike? Not really... it does add some nice small bits such as pre-synchro-shift indicator sounds, but these units really belong on mountain bikes.

## BT-DN110 / BM-DN100 required
The [EW-WU111](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/) / [EW-WU101](/component/d-fly-seatstay-wireless-unit-ew-wu101/) wireless units are meant to be used with the [BT-DN110](/component/internal-battery-bt-dn110/) / [BM-DN100](/component/external-battery-mount-bm-dn100/) battery / mount and **will not work** with the older SM-BTR2, SM-BMR1 or SM-BMR2 batteries. The older SM-EWW01 will work with the older batteries, but only supports ANT+ (no BluetoothLE).

## New or used? Amazon or eBay?
Whether you should buy a new or pre-owned device depends on what device you’re after. The [Inline Wireless unit](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/) found on road bikes generally doesn’t wear or degrade with use, so you might as well buy it second hand. If you’re looking to buy the Information Display you have the state of the screen to consider. Just like your mobile phone display, the Di2 Information Display will not stay in pristine condition forever. Before you buy one off eBay have a good look at the photos and check for scratches.

I’ve added shopping links for your convenience – and using the links below will earn the site a small commission (at no cost to you). Of course it’s up to you to decide where to buy your hardware. Other popular shops are ChainReactionCycles, Wiggle, Mantel, bike-components and bike-discount.

- EW-WU111: [Amazon](https://amzn.to/32dQQrr) | [eBay](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=ew-wu111&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338714358&customid=installGuide&toolid=10001&mkevt=1) | [Wiggle](http://bit.ly/3gT6MDB)
- EW-WU101: [eBay](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=ew-wu101&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338714358&customid=installGuide&toolid=10001&mkevt=1)
- SC-MT800: [eBay](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=sc-mt800&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338714358&customid=installGuide&toolid=10001&mkevt=1) | [Wiggle](http://bit.ly/2Zr896B)
- SC-M9051: [Amazon](https://amzn.to/2C78K4y) | [Ebay](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=sc-m9051&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338714358&customid=installGuide&toolid=10001&mkevt=1)


featured-wireless-unit-why-get-one

Di2 road bikes do not feature wireless communication by default. You need a Wireless Unit or D-fly in order to add BluetoothLE / ANT to your bike. You can then control your Garmin/Wahoo and see di2 stats and gearing information on your head unit.

Wireless Unit / Information Display – why get a D-Fly

<NewContentAlert title="Updated content available" text="I recently published a new and improved page on Wireless Module troubleshooting. I'm not taking this older page down just yet, but do recommend you read the new guide instead - it is much more up to date." link="/di2-wireless-module-bluetoothle-ant-troubleshooting-guide/" link_text="Read the Complete Guide on Wireless Module troubleshooting" />

The [EW-WU111 Wireless Unit](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111) is a great piece of kit. It allows you to view Di2 information on your head unit, let your Di2 system control your head unit and lets you change settings and update firmware using the [mobile app](https://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/application/).

This last part is the tricky bit. While Shimano’s hardware is top-notch, the [mobile apps](https://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/application/) tend to crash while updating your Di2 firmware, resulting in a non-responsive system. Part of this is due to the nature of wireless firmware updates, but it would have been nice of Shimano to show at least some recovery instructions.

Of course you could just decide to never use the [mobile apps](https://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/application/) and not take any risks – but once you get the apps running they are actually pretty nice. Originally the only way to update the [EW-WU111](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111) firmware was using the mobile app, causing a lot of crashed systems... At some point Shimano started shipping the [EW-WU111](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111) with updated firmware, allowing you to update it using the SM-BCR2 charger. 

If you're lucky you have one of the more recent models. If you're unlucky.. you'll have to do the initial update and setup using the mobile app. Don't worry though, recovery is usually easy!

![This is what the update failure looks like..](https://assets.bettershifting.com/wireless_update_error_69e1a6e3f2.png)

## How to perform the initial update as safe as possible
There are a couple of things you can do to reduce the risk of the update crashing on you. Here they are:
- Make sure all other components are up to date by connecting the bike to e-Tube project (using the charger) and updating them
- If the [e-Tube Mobile app](https://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/application/) asks you to change the passkey, try to  **avoid** do this. You can click the 'X' or 'cancel' and it should keep the default '000000'. Note that it is recommended to change the default passkey later, after the initial update has succeeded.
- If you have already changed the passkey, disconnect the [e-Tube mobile app](https://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/application/) and then go to your phone's bluetooth settings. *Forget* the [EW-WU111](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111) / [101](/component/d-fly-seatstay-wireless-unit-ew-wu101) from the known bluetooth device list. If you don't there is a chance the phone cached the old wireless passkey and fails to reconnect halfway through the firmware update process, causing it to fail.

## Update failed, bricked your system?
If the mobile app crashes or interrupts its own update-process chances are pretty good it has rendered your system unresponsive, leaving you unable to connect to it via the app or pc and often unable to shift as well.

Shimano’s [official fix](http://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/news/firmware_restoration_procedure02.html) involves connecting the [SM-PCE1](/component/pc-linkage-diagnostics-tool-sm-pce1) / [SM-PCE02 diagnostic units](/component/pc-linkage-diagnostics-tool-sm-pce02) to the crashed component and restoring functionality that way. Since this tool is rather expensive most consumers won’t have this and will be forced to bring their bike to the local bike shop. However, there often is another way to fix your Di2 system.

## Restore Di2 system using SM-BCR2 Charger
Yep! The device you use to charge your Di2 system also doubles as a [PC linkage device](/how-to-connect-your-di2-system-to-your-windows-computer). You can use it to change or back-up settings and also update the firmware for each of your components. This last bit of functionality is what we’ll use to restore your Di2. 

This is what I recommend doing:

- Disconnect the battery
- Wait for 30-60 seconds
- Reconnect the battery
- Use the [SM-BCR2/Charger](/component/internal-battery-charger-sm-bcr2) to connect your bike to your computer via USB
- Use the [e-Tube software](https://e-tubeproject.shimano.com) to restore the firmware on any confused or crashed components.
- That’s it! You should now be able to use your bike again! Good luck updating the firmware and Ride On!
 
### E-Tube Project 3.4.5, 4.0.4, or V5 / Professional?
If you've not used E-Tube Project before you may be wondering what version to use. There are three versions, and they're all slightly different. Most importantly, V5 / Professional **will not work** with the charger. That version only works with the [SM-PCE02 diagnostics tool](/component/pc-linkage-diagnostics-tool-sm-pce02).

The older v3.4.5 and v4.0.4 will work just fine, and I have added links to those versions to the [Di2 Software and Tools page](/di2-e-tube-software-and-downloads/).

### Can't get to the battery?
Some bicycle manufacturers make it really hard to get to the battery. This is usually due to the frame's design or the use of suspension/flexible seatposts or dropper posts. In some of these cases you'll have to remove the bottom bracket to disconnect the battery and that can be a hassle. Maybe you don't own the correct press-fit tools or just don't want to remove the bottom bracket. 

So what can you do? The next best thing is to disconnect every component connected to the battery. As **Maik** points out in the comments below, this is how that works:

- Disconnect the wire at the rear derailleur
- Disconnect the wire at the front derailleur

Next you'll disconnect the front of the bike. This is usually connected via a single wire running from the stem/handlebar into the down tube. If your bike has the [EW-RS910 bar-end junction](/component/frame-handlebar-junction-a-ew-rs910/) installed then it'll probably be connected to the rest of the system using the [Y-splitter](/component/y-splitter-cable-ew-jc130/) and either the [EW-JC200 inline junction](/component/inline-2-port-junction-ew-jc200/) or [EW-WU111 Wireless module](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/). Simply disconnect the wire going from the [JC200](/component/inline-2-port-junction-ew-jc200/) / [WU111](/component/d-fly-inline-wireless-unit-ew-wu111/) into the down tube. 

Do you use the [SM-EW90 below-the-stem junction](/component/below-the-stem-junction-a-sm-ew90/)? Then just disconnect the wire running from that to the rest of the bike.

You have now isolated the battery from the rest of the system, effectively disconnecting it. The only thing it is still connected to is the [SM-JC41 Junction B](/component/internal-junction-b-sm-jc41/), but that is just a *dumb* four way splitter.

featured-wireless-unit-error

Before you can use the Di2 D-fly or EW-WU111 / EW-WU101 wireless units you have to update them. Unfortunately this can go wrong and prevent the bike from working. This page describes how to fix that.

How to recover from a failed Di2 Wireless firmware update

All of the Di2 hardware is completely cross-series compatible, meaning that you can mix Ultegra with DURA-ACE and even mtb components if you want to. The hardware below is used on both the Ultegra and DURA-ACE groupsets - and MTB and GRX as well.

Seatstay D-Fly Wireless Unit

Non-series components EW-WU101

Affiliate Links

BT-DN110 / BM-DN100 required

E-Tube app

Specifications

Related components

Related pages

Installation Guide: Wireless Unit / D-fly (EW-WU111)

Di2 Wireless Module // BluetoothLE/ANT guide

Wireless Unit / Information Display – why get a D-Fly

How to recover from a failed Di2 Wireless firmware update

Manuals & other documents