component-FD-6870-F

The Shimano FD-6870-F is a braze-on road Di2 front derailleur that can also be mounted using a clamp. It weighs 138.5 g and supports a top gear maximum of 46T-5

di2-dealer-manual-ultegra-6870

Ultegra 6870 Dealer Manual

manual-di2-front-derailleur

Di2 Front Derailleur User Manual

When used with the BT-DN110 battery, the 6870 derailleurs are also synchronized shift capable. This front derailleur doesn't allow for as much flexibility as the newer ones do though. 

Read more on that in my [complete guide to synchronized shift](/di2-synchronized-shifting-the-complete-guide/#note68709070synchro).

This guide applies to front derailleurs that have two adjustment bolts (or limit screws). All first generation 11-speed derailleurs are two-adjustment-bolt derailleurs:

- [Ultegra FD-6870](/component/ultegra-front-derailleur-fd-6870-f/)
- [DURA-ACE FD-9070](/component/dura-ace-front-derailleur-fd-9070-f/)

Before your start, make sure you have correctly set up your front derailleur height, angle, and support bolt. Have a look at the [front derailleur installation guide](/ultegra-fd-6870-dura-ace-fd-9070-di2-front-derailleur-installation-guide/) for information on how to do that.

## Set the low adjustment bolt
These derailleurs have three bolts close to each other, so take a moment to identify the correct bolt to adjust. We’ll first set the low adjustment bolt and have colored it yellow in the image below.

![FD low limit bolt](https://assets.bettershifting.com/two_bolt_limit_setup_front_derailleur_low_limit_screw_51a89ee9af.png)

In order to set the low adjustment first shift the front derailleur to the small chainring. Then, shift the rear derailleur to the largest sprocket.

Now take your size 2 hex wrench and turn the adjustment bolt to set the clearance between the chain and the chain guide inner plate. The goal is a clearance (**B–C**) between **0 and 0.5 mm** – but not so close to 0 that the chain rubs the chain guide

![Adjust the FD low limit electronically](https://assets.bettershifting.com/two_bolt_limit_setup_front_derailleur_set_low_limit_screw_ca4297a15b.png)

## Set the top adjustment bolt
![FD top limit bolt](https://assets.bettershifting.com/two_bolt_limit_setup_front_derailleur_top_limit_screw_625349d5de.png)

The top adjustment procedure is similar to that of the low adjustment. You identify the correct bolt – colored yellow in the image above – and turn it to set the clearance.

Start by shifting the front derailleur to the largest chainring and shift the rear derailleur to the smallest sprocket. Now turn the adjustment bolt until the clearance between the chain and chain guide outer plate is **between 0.5 and 1mm** (this is the distance between **B and C**).

![FD set up top limit screw](https://assets.bettershifting.com/two_bolt_limit_setup_front_derailleur_set_top_limit_screw_6c5f233b63.png)

## All done – electrical adjustment
You should now be done setting up limit bolts for your front derailleur. Next up is setting the electrical top limit.

Note that this section does **not** apply to the [6770 front derailleur](/component/ultegra-10-speed-front-derailleur-fd-6770/) - these 10-speed front derailleurs do **not have an electrical adjustment** setting.

Why also set the electrical top limit if you've already set the physical limit using the limit adjustment bolt? The top adjustment bolt sets the hard limit (between 0.5 and 1.0 mm) and the electrical top limit adjustment sets the final position (0 – 0.5 mm), allowing the front derailleur to overshift slighty – which is what we want.

## High limit adjustment
The process for doing the high limit adjustment is relatively simple, just follow these steps. 

To begin, shift the front derailleur to the **large chainring** and the rear derailleur to the **largest sprocket**.

Press and hold the button on junction A until the LED next to it lights up red. You will now enter adjustment mode. You then use the buttons on your shifter to move the front derailleur in or out - depending on the buttons you're pressing.

Use the shifter buttons to set the clearance between the chain and the chain guide inner plate to **0.0 and 0.5 mm**. 

When you’re done just press and hold the junction A button to leave adjustment mode.

![Buttons and their direction](https://assets.bettershifting.com/adjust_front_fd_buttons_direction_01400553bd.png)

## All done!
Note that this is not the only way to micro-adjust your front derailleur. You could also [connect your bike to your Windows computer](/how-to-connect-your-di2-system-to-your-windows-computer/) and use the e-Tube project software to adjust your derailleurs.

two-bolt-limit-setup-front_derailleur_low_limit_screw

Read how to set up your two-adjustment-bolt Di2 Front Derailleur (Ultegra FD-6870, DURA-ACE FD-9070)

Set up Front derailleur limits (two bolt derailleurs: 6770, 6780, 9070)

small_DI2_BEGINNER_BANNER_featured_11.png

thumbnail_DI2_BEGINNER_BANNER_featured_11.png

DI2_BEGINNER_BANNER_featured_11.png

large_DI2_BEGINNER_BANNER_11.png

medium_DI2_BEGINNER_BANNER_11.png

small_DI2_BEGINNER_BANNER_11.png

thumbnail_DI2_BEGINNER_BANNER_11.png

DI2_BEGINNER_BANNER_11.png

Just bought a new Di2 bike? This page explains what the buttons do, how to charge (and how often) and what synchronized shift is. Read my Di2 beginner manual and learn more!

10/11-speed Di2 beginner's guide to Di2

**Synchronized shift** is available on all 11-speed and 12-speed road series, as well as MTB and GRX.

That includes:

- 105 R7150 (**12-speed**)
- Ultegra 6870 (11-speed)
- Ultegra R8050 (11-speed)
- Ultegra R8150 (**12-speed**)
- Dura-Ace 9070 (11-speed)
- Dura-Ace R9150 (11-speed)
- Dura-Ace R9250 (**12-speed**)
- XT M8050 (MTB, 11-speed)
- XTR M9050 (MTB, 11-speed)
- GRX RX815 (Gravel, 11-speed)

12-speed Shimano e-MTBs also feature Auto Shift and Free Shift, and I'll cover that in a future article.

In this guide I’ll first explain what *Synchronized Shift* is *exactly*, then walk you through the requirements, and finally, set it up using both [the mobile app](/set-up-di2-synchronized-shifting-using-e-tube-mobile/) and [E-Tube Project for Windows](/di2-e-tube-software-and-downloads/).

Are you wondering why **synchronized shift doesn't work on your 12-speed bike**? Or perhaps your 12-speed time-trial bike? You probably haven't changed the bike's selected shift mode to synchronized shift yet. [Read this section on how to change shift mode](#changeshiftmode).

If you want to skip ahead, use these links:

- [What is Synchronized Shift](#whatissynchroshift)
- [Synchronized Shifting requirements](#synchrorequirements)
- [Change shift mode - enable synchro shift](#changeshiftmode)
- [Set up Synchronized Shift using E-Tube Project for Windows](#setupwindows)
- [Using the E-Tube mobile app to set up Synchronized Shift](#setupmobile)
- [What to do when your cassette/chainrings are not listed](#cassetteisnotlisted)
- [Synchro Shift with FD-6870 / FD-9070](#note68709070synchro)

## What is Synchronized Shift {#whatissynchroshift}
Di2 Synchronized Shift is Shimano’s name for the Di2 automatic shift modes. Yep.. modes. 
There isn’t just one Synchro Shift, but actually two distinct modes, *Full Synchronized Shift* and *Semi Synchronized Shift*. 

According to Shimano; “*(full) Synchronized Shift is a function that automatically shifts the front derailleur when the rear derailleur is shifted, allowing the derailleurs to work together efficiently.*” 

When the other mode - *Semi Synchro Shift* -  is selected, the bike will shift the rear derailleur automatically when you shift the front derailleur. In this mode, the bike compensates for the front shift by moving the rear derailleur one or two gears.

Of course, you can also decide not to use the Synchro modes at all. That is referred to as *Manual mode* - because, as you might have guessed, you’ll be shifting everything manually.

Let’s briefly run through each Synchro mode.

### Synchro Shift (default: S2)
So, knowing that *(full) Synchronized Shift* automatically shifts the front derailleur, how does that work exactly?

Some people think the bike keeps track of your speed and cadence and automatically shifts for you. Others think there is some other kind of intelligence at play.

This would be amazing, but *Synchro Shift* is not that clever. It just automatically shifts the front derailleur when the rear derailleur reaches certain predefined gears. These shift points can be set and fully customized by the user as we’ll discuss below. 

![Synchronized shift map](https://assets.bettershifting.com/synchro_explained_map_d54fc16cc8.png)

When shifting from **11T** towards **28T** the system will automatically shift from the big ring to the small ring between **25T** and **21T**

You can still shift the front derailleur manually any time you like, of course. Note that when you shift the front derailleur yourself it will not shift the rear derailleur to compensate.

### Semi Synchro Shift (default: S1)
When your bike is set to Semi Synchro that means it’ll automatically shift the rear derailleur to compensate for any front derailleur shift. This will reduce or even eliminate big jumps in gear ratios when shifting the front derailleur.

<YouTube videoId="CiYJBhG6QrE" />

It won’t shift the front derailleur automatically, but some people actually prefer *Semi Synchro*. Personally, I went back and forth between *full* and *semi synchro*, then used semi exclusively for about six months and then finally settled on *Full Synchro Shift*.

Switching modes is easy though, so just experiment and see what’s right for you.  
([more on switching modes right here](#changeshiftmode))

### Manual Mode (M)
I know I said there are two synchro modes, but technically this is not a synchro mode at all. In manual mode, the bike doesn’t shift for you at all. It is all about full manual control, just like you’re used to.

<OnPageAd variant="storefront" />

## Synchronized Shifting requirements {#synchrorequirements}
Sounds good? All **12-speed** bikes come with synchronized shift out of the box:

- Ultegra R8100 (12-speed)
- DURA-ACE R9200 (12-speed)
- 105 R7150 (12-speed)

Is yours an **11-speed road bike**? All you need in order to use synchronized shift is the [BT-DN110 internal battery](/component/internal-battery-bt-dn110/) or the [BM-DN100 external battery mount](/component/external-battery-mount-bm-dn100/). Ultegra R8050 and Dura-Ace R9150 bikes generally come with this battery. Older bikes (6870 and 9070) do not.

Synchro shift will work on these 11-speed road Di2 series:

- Ultegra 6870
- DURA-ACE 9070
- Ultegra R8050
- DURA-ACE R9150
- GRX RX815

### Mountain Bikes
Mountain bikes (M8050 and M9050) have been able to run *synchronized shifting* for a while now. The requirements are slightly different. 

A display ([SC-MT800](/component/xt-display-junction-sc-mt800/), [SC-M9051](/component/xtr-display-junction-sc-m9051/) or [SC-M9050](/component/xtr-display-junction-sc-m9050/)) is required and, depending on the display, a specific battery. Any of the combinations below enable *Synchronized Shift* on MTB.

![MTB Synchro shift requirements](https://assets.bettershifting.com/synchro_shift_guide_mtb_table_7552fd526e.png)

## Change Shift Mode - enable synchro shift {#changeshiftmode}
Reading all of the above, chances are pretty good that your bike can do *synchro shifts*. For Ultegra R8050, Dura-Ace R9150, GRX, and newer this will be set up for you out of the box. The older series Di2 may require a [firmware update](/learn-how-to-update-your-di2-component-firmware/) first.

So how do you actually perform synchro shifts? 

Simple - you **switch** your bike to the shift mode you like and then just shift. That’s it.

How? By double-pressing the main function button. 

On **11-speed bikes** you'll find this button next to the **charge port**. 

On **12-speed bikes** the function button is **on the rear derailleur**.

Pressing this button twice will cycle through the three shift modes. The default mode configuration is as follows:

- **Mode M** - Full manual shifting
- **Mode S1** - Semi Synchro shift
- **Mode S2** - Full Synchro shift

I say default configuration because these **S1** and **S2** modes are fully customisable. You can set them up any way you see fit.

You could for example set both shift modes to full synchro, but have the automatic shift points differ for each mode. Or set both modes to semi-synchro, or mix things up a bit.

### What shift mode are you in?
Let’s go back to that button. Knowing that double pressing the function button will change the selected shift mode, how can you tell what mode you’re in?

The LEDs next to the function button will tell you. On 11-speed Di2 these LEDs are on the main junction, while 12-speed Di2 has the LED on the **rear derailleur**. The LEDs light up differently depending on the selected mode.

![Change synchronized shift mode using buttons](https://assets.bettershifting.com/synchro_explained_buttons_6a1a0c4777.png)

#### 11-speed Di2 synchro shift LEDs
- **Solid red/green** lights: manual shift mode
- **Twice blinking red/green** lights: shift mode 1 (default: semi-synchronized shift)
- **Three-times blinking red/green** lights: shift mode 2 (default: synchronized shift)

#### 12-speed Di2 synchro shift LEDs
- **Blue (2 seconds)**: Manual shift
- **Flashing blue (2 times)**: Shift mode 1
- **Flashing blue (3 times)**: Shift mode 2

<YouTube videoId="dHg-Kaj0kJc" />

## Set up Synchro Shift using E-Tube Project for Windows {#setupwindows}
If you haven’t already, download and install [E-Tube Project for Windows](/di2-e-tube-software-and-downloads/). After installing it, [connect your bike to your computer](/how-to-connect-your-di2-system-to-your-windows-computer/) and launch the program.

Once connected click the *Synchronized Shift* button under **Gear Shifting** on the **Customize** tab. 

![This is where you get started setting up synchro](https://assets.bettershifting.com/synchro_shift_guide_start_screen_948df76658.jpg)

You’ll now see the basic setup screen where you can change:

- **FC**: The installed Front Chain rings
- **CS**: The installed cassette
- **Synchronized Shift Interval**: How quickly synchro shifts happen
- **Gear Position Control**: whether or not Gear Position Control is enabled.

Click **Next** and you’ll be shown the shift mode setup screen. 

![Synchronized Shift setup screen](https://assets.bettershifting.com/synchro_shift_guide_synchro_screen_eccd1ee6ac.jpg)

On this page, you can set up both Shift **mode 1** and Shift **mode 2**. 

Directly behind the **S1** and **S2** labels you’ll see the current setting for that mode. In the image below **S1** is set to *Semi-synchronized shift* and **S2** is set to *Synchronized shift*. You can change these simply by selecting the preferred mode from the list.

![Change synchro mode](https://assets.bettershifting.com/synchro_shift_guide_change_mode_41549b3eb6.jpg)

I’ll leave these to the defaults to avoid confusing new users, but feel free to play around with it to see what happens.

### Customise Semi-synchronized shift
Configuring *Semi Synchronized shift* isn’t hard, you just need to know what it is you’re changing. You can change two values: **Rear up on front down** and **Rear down on front up**. 

These do exactly what they say they do.. they change the number of gears the rear derailleur shifts up/down when you shift the front derailleur up/down.

![Semi-synchro settings](https://assets.bettershifting.com/synchro_shift_guide_semi_synchro_d70d0c0219.jpg)

Shifting up means shifting to a harder gear, while shifting down refers to an easier gear.

You can use this to compensate for front derailleur shifts, basically making the jump in gear ratio smaller.


### Set up (full) Synchronized shift
The *(full) Synchronized Shift* settings may look a bit more intimidating, but they’re fairly straightforward. All you do is drag the white boxes to your desired position.

If this seems a bit cryptic, don’t worry. Let’s walk through changing the upshift. On my bike that means shifting from the **39T** to the **53T**.

![synchro shift upshift before](https://assets.bettershifting.com/synchro_shift_guide_upshift_before_b0b724dd94.png)

Starting at the 28T at the top left, follow the green line all the way to the right, to the white box (gear ratio 3.0.0 or **39T**x**13T**). When you shift the rear derailleur one more time it’ll move to the **19T** and also shift the front derailleur. The resulting gear is **53T**x**19T**, with a gear ratio of 2.79.

If you follow the gear ratios closely you can see that, as you shift up, you move through the following gear ratios:

2.29 (**17T**), 2.60 (**15T**), 2.79 (**14T**), 3.00 (**13T**) and then back to 2.79 (**19T**). This last step means that the bike shifts to an easier gear, even though you have been shifting to harder gears for a while.

Let’s change that now.

Doing so isn’t hard, you simply drag the lower white box to the preferred gear / gear ratio. In this example I’m setting it up to shift from gear ratios **2.79** to **3.00** and then to **3.12**. 

![synchro shift upshift after](https://assets.bettershifting.com/synchro_shift_guide_upshift_after_9f116a9d37.png)

Of course you could also select gear ratio **3.53**, that’s up to you. Personally, I like the jump in gear ratio to be relatively small when shifting up, but this is highly personal.

#### Synchronized Downshift
When setting up the downshifts you basically repeat the above process, but this time follow the blue line from the lower right to the top left.

This bike is set to a bit of an extreme downshift. When in the big ring it’ll shift all the way to the last gear, the **28T**. It’ll then shift the front derailleur to the little ring and the rear derailleur to **25T**. This is pretty severe cross-chaining, so let’s fix that.

![synchro shift downshift before](https://assets.bettershifting.com/synchro_shift_guide_downshift_before_509d620c51.png)

I’ll set it up to shift the front derailleur when the rear derailleur reaches the **21T**, or the fourth gear from the bottom. The most sensible gear to shift to seems to be the **17T**, resulting in a shift from gear ratio **2.52** to **2.29**. 

In this scenario, you’re shifting to an easier gear and you’re most likely climbing - or having a hard time at least. You could therefore also decide to jump to the next gear instead, from **2.52** to **2.05**. Take the time to experiment and settle on what works for you.

![synchro shift downshift after](https://assets.bettershifting.com/synchro_shift_guide_downshift_after_77f2b408a2.png)

When you’re happy with the settings just click the Apply button at the bottom left of the window. And don’t forget to disconnect E-Tube Project when you’re done with the app.

## Set up Synchro Shift using the mobile app (Android/iOS) {#setupmobile}
If you have a [D-Fly, Wireless Unit or Display installed](/wireless-unit-di2-display-why-get-a-d-fly/) on your bike then you can also use the mobile app to set up *Synchronized Shifting*. The process is very similar to the one described above, with subtle differences.

For example, the mobile app features some pretty cool animations displaying how the bike moves through gears. It also allows you to set multiple presets and select the ones you like. 

This is pretty cool, but it also means the mobile app can be a bit intimidating and confusing. I have written a separate page on [setting up synchronized shifting using E-Tube Project for mobile](/set-up-di2-synchronized-shifting-using-e-tube-mobile/), so read up all on configuring synchro shift there.

## What to do when your cassette/chainrings are not listed {#cassetteisnotlisted}
If you’ve installed a 105 series or non-shimano cassette or chainring you will have noticed that you cannot select that cassette in the E-Tube app. You cannot tell your bike the exact gearing that is installed and you cannot insert custom cassettes/chainrings.

The only cassettes and chainrings you can select in E-Tube Project are the ones that match the Di2 series currently installed on the bike. Have you built a bike with different series components? The rear derailleur determines what cassettes you’ll be able to select.

Seeing as setting up *(full) Synchro Shift* is done by telling the system to shift from certain gears to other gears you can imagine that not being able to actually select your gears can be a problem.

So what can you do when you cannot select your installed cassette or rings?

***Select the closest match***.

Why? Well, there are a couple of reasons. 
First of all, the selected cassette / chainrings influence the displayed gears and gear ratios on the Synchro setup screen.Also, Gear Position Control is automatically enabled or disabled depending on the selected gearing.

Selecting the closest match will result in a displayed gear ratio that is pretty close to your actual gear ratios. In fact, in most cases it will not be off at all. 

Even if a gear’s number of teeth or gear ratio is wrong, you can still set up synchronized shift. The trick is to look at the gear’s index.

Basically, if you set it up to synchro shift when the rear derailleur reaches the 3rd gear from the top, it’ll always do that - no matter what cassette is installed. 

## Synchro Shift with FD-6870 and FD-9070 {#note68709070synchro}
*Synchronized shift* works on the older 6870 and 9070 series too - after you [install the required firmware updates](/learn-how-to-update-your-di2-component-firmware/). It makes sense for this *Synchro Shift* to be just like that on the newer series. All it really does it shift one derailleur instead of the other at certain points on the cassette, right?

Well...

There are some strange limitations in setting up your *(full) Synchronized Shift* when using the [FD-6870](/component/ultegra-front-derailleur-fd-6870-f/) / [FD-9070](/component/dura-ace-front-derailleur-fd-9070-f/) that go away when using a newer Front Derailleur. 

Specifically: the point at which the bike shifts from the big to small ring can only be set to the last two sprockets or cogs on the cassette.

![Synchro shift 6870 vs r8050](https://assets.bettershifting.com/upgrade_synchro_information_cd5fb81f8b.png)

Those white boxes under the **50T**/**Top** column are the gears you can move the light blue coloured box to - this is the gear at which the bike will shift from the big to small ring. As you can tell from the image, this limitation is only there when using FD-6870 (or FD-9070). When you use [FD-R9150](/component/dura-ace-front-derailleur-fd-r9150-f/) or [FD-R8050](/component/ultegra-front-derailleur-fd-r8050-f/), you can choose the shift point from a much wider range of gears.

This actually put me off using *Synchro Shift* on my 6870 bike for a while and I switched to *semi-synchro*. After a while I switched back to *(full) Synchro* and learned to live with its limitations. Whether or not this works for you is ultimately up to you, but it's good to know.

<OnPageAd variant="storefront" />

## Questions? Comments?
Did you manage to set up your synchronized shifting? Do you have any questions? [Let me know](/contact/) or post a comment below.

If you're looking for roughly the same content in video form, have a look at [GPLama's Di2 playlist](https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLeDc5AkDnMO9s-hjnba_X7ICg2SPUIgM0).

<YouTube videoId="Z-IuDe7Jklo" />

large_synchro-shift-guide-synchro-screen.jpg

medium_synchro-shift-guide-synchro-screen.jpg

small_synchro-shift-guide-synchro-screen.jpg

thumbnail_synchro-shift-guide-synchro-screen.jpg

synchro-shift-guide-synchro-screen.jpg

Synchronized Shifting - what is it exactly? What does it do and how can you set it up? Read the complete guide on synchronized shifting right here. This page will guide you through the process of setting synchro up.

Synchronized Shifting - the complete guide

upgrade-smew67a

Upgrade your old 6770 series 10 speed Di2 bike to 11 speed Di2. This guide tells you how to do that and also upgrade to di2 synchronized shifting and improve your bike's looks.

In-depth guide on upgrading your old Di2 bike

Installation of the previous generation Di2 front derailleurs [FD-6870](/component/ultegra-front-derailleur-fd-6870-f/) and [FD-9070](/component/dura-ace-front-derailleur-fd-9070-f/) is a relatively straightforward affair. These front derailleurs have both a top and low limit screw, making installation simple and quick.

## Attach the derailleur to the frame
These derailleurs are both meant to be attached using a braze-on mount, but a [band adapter](/component/front-derailleur-road-clamp-band-adapter-sm-ad91/) is available for frames without such mount.

### When there is a mounting boss on the frame
Use your **size 5 hex wrench** to loosely screw in the mounting bolt and attach the derailleur to the frame. Do ***not*** tighten it fully yet. 

These derailleurs have a tiny bolt that goes through the derailleur and comes out the back. You’ll later tighten this bolt to sit flush against the frame, giving the derailleur something to push against when shifting. 

Now check where the derailleur’s support bolt hits the frame,  and stick the **backup plate** on the frame by peeling off the liner on the back. The **backup plate** is the small metal plate you got with the front derailleur - it’s there to prevent damage to the frame itself.

Note that if the support bolt touches the frame’s mounting boss itself, you may not need the **backup plate**. I haven’t used this plate [on my Cinelli](/build-log-cinelli-veltrix-disc-di2/), for example. 

The support bolt should touch the side of the backup plate without the tape. Tighten the bolt until it touches the backup plate.

![FD backup plate](https://assets.bettershifting.com/fd_6870_9070_installation_guide_FD_RX_815_F_backup_plate_b7c0fd64b3.png)

### When there is no mounting boss on the frame
If the frame you’re using does not have a mounting boss you will need a Front-derailleur [band adapter](/component/front-derailleur-road-clamp-band-adapter-sm-ad91/). While you can probably get away with using any band adapter, we recommend using the one Shimano make, the [SM-AD91 band adapter](/component/front-derailleur-road-clamp-band-adapter-sm-ad91/). 

Install the band adapter to the front derailleur using a size 5 hex wrench and the provided bolt. You do not have to install the backup plate, since you'll tighten the support bolt to sit flush against the band adapter. It won't damage your expensive frame.

Now tighten the derailleur’s support bolt using a **size 2 hex wrench** until it only just touches the backup plate.

Remove the clamp bolt from the clamp band, attach the band to your frame and insert and tighten the clamp bolt. Do ***not*** tighten it fully yet, as we haven’t checked the height of the front derailleur yet.

## Install the electric wire
Now let’s install the [EW-SD50 electric wire](/component/di2-electric-wire-ew-sd50). This is easier to do when the crankset has not been installed yet, because you’ll have easy access to the front derailleur area.

If you haven’t run the [electric wire](/component/di2-electric-wire-ew-sd50) through the frame yet, do so now. In order to plug the wire into the socket properly we recommend you use the Shimano [Cable Plug tool TL-EW02](/component/di2-cable-plug-tool-tl-ew02). You should feel it snap into place. If it doesn’t, the wire is not installed correctly and will most likely come loose.

![FD attach wire](https://assets.bettershifting.com/fd_6870_9070_installation_guide_front_derailleur_wire_1024x485_6721d2ee8d.png)

The [FD-6870](/component/ultegra-front-derailleur-fd-6870-f) and [FD-9070](/component/dura-ace-front-derailleur-fd-9070-f) both have a cable holder on the back which you can use to tidy up your cable routing. Whether or not you’ll use this cable holder will depend on where the electric wire exists the frame. If you do use it, the [TL-EW02 tool](/component/di2-cable-plug-tool-tl-ew02) is very helpful pushing the electric wire into place.

## Set the derailleur height and angle
Make sure the crankset is installed so that you can secure the front derailleur to the frame at the right height and angle. First we’ll adjust the derailleur height.

Loosen the mounting bolt and move the front derailleur vertically until there is about 1-3 mm of clearance between the chain guide outer plate and the tip of the teeth of the largest chainring.

![FD derailleur height](https://assets.bettershifting.com/fd_6870_9070_installation_guide_front_derailleur_height_3dcce7407f.png)

To set the angle of the Front Derailleur, rotate it so that the flat surface of the chain guide outer plate is directly above the largest chainring and the rear edge of the chain guide is **inwards by 0.5 to 1 mm** compared to the front edge.

![FD Angle](https://assets.bettershifting.com/fd_6870_9070_installation_guide_set_angle_1024x752_dbd82e5bf8.png)

Now let’s straighten up the Front Derailleur so that the chain guide outer plates are in line with the chainring.

Use a **size 2 hex wrench** to adjust the support bolt and make sure that the flat portion of the chain guide outer plate is aligned with the surface of the largest chainring.

If the support bolt does not touch the backup plate, move the backup plate so that it does.

![FD support bolt](https://assets.bettershifting.com/fd_6870_9070_installation_guide_support_bolt_straighten_1024x609_1079c1fb4b.png)

## Almost done!
That concludes the installation of your Front Derailleur. It should now be properly attached to your frame. The only thing that’s left to do is set the [Top Adjustment bolt and the low limit](/set-up-front-derailleur-limit-screws-adjustment-bolts-two-bolt-derailleurs/).

This can only be done once all components have been installed. Read about [setting the Top Adjustment bolt on this page](/set-up-front-derailleur-limit-screws-adjustment-bolts-two-bolt-derailleurs/).

fd-6870-9070-installation-guide-FD-RX815-F_backup_plate

Bought a new Di2 derailleur or have to replace your old one? Read FD-6870 / FD-9070 Di2 Front Derailleur installation instructions here.

Installation Guide: Ultegra FD-6870 / DURA-ACE FD-9070 Di2 Front Derailleur

The 6870 Di2 groupset was released in 2013 and is “pro-proven” as it is a direct trickle down from Shimano’s DURA-ACE group. It stands for state-of-the-art technology, proven in pro races, the technology used in ULTEGRA 6800 series with 11-speed, advanced designed brakes, latest chain treatment and more.

Front Derailleur

Ultegra FD-6870-F

Affiliate Links

Specifications

Related components

Related pages

Set up Front derailleur limits (two bolt derailleurs: 6770, 6780, 9070)

10/11-speed Di2 beginner's guide to Di2

Synchronized Shifting - the complete guide

In-depth guide on upgrading your old Di2 bike

Installation Guide: Ultegra FD-6870 / DURA-ACE FD-9070 Di2 Front Derailleur

Manuals & other documents