component-SW-R9160

The SW-R9160 remote TT/Triathlon shifter allows for shifting when using TT aero bars. It is mounted at the end of the aero bar/extension.

## Synchronized Shift

di2-dealer-manual-dura-ace-r9150

DURA-ACE R9150 Dealer Manual

manual-di2-sw-r9160

SW-R9160 User Manual

large_component-satellite-sprint-shifter-lengths.png

medium_component-satellite-sprint-shifter-lengths.png

small_component-satellite-sprint-shifter-lengths.png

thumbnail_component-satellite-sprint-shifter-lengths.png

component-satellite-sprint-shifter-lengths.png

These shifters are 12-speed compatible, if you update them to firmware version **3.3.0** or newer. 

In order to update these shifters, either connect them to the [SM-PCE02](/component/pc-linkage-diagnostics-tool-sm-pce02/) or [SM-PCE1](/component/pc-linkage-diagnostics-tool-sm-pce1/) on their own, or connect them to an 11-speed Di2 bike and use the [SM-BCR2 charger](/component/internal-battery-charger-sm-bcr2/) to run the firmware update. 

### No wireless
These shifters **have to be** connected to the [BT-DN300 battery](/component/internal-battery-bt-dn300/) by wire. They will **not** function if there isn't a wired connection between them and the battery.

You could plug them into one of the wireless shift levers, but they won't work unless you then connect the shift levers to the battery by wire.

small_build-12sp-tt-tri-bikes-featured.jpg

thumbnail_build-12sp-tt-tri-bikes-featured.jpg

build-12sp-tt-tri-bikes-featured.jpg

Building a 12-speed Di2 Time Trial (TT) or Triathlon bike isn't as straightforward as you might think. This guide shows what components you can use, and how to connect the SD50 type shifters and SD300 drivetrain to each other.

Build a 12-speed Di2 Time Trial / Triathlon bike

Did you know most 10-speed and 11-speed Di2 hardware is cross-series compatible? You can actually mix different series and even different generations of Di2 hardware, as long as you make sure you follow the Di2 compatibility chart!

Hidden somewhere on the Shimano E-Tube Project website is a [Di2/e-Tube compatibility chart](https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/e-tube/project/compatibility.html). This useful PDF helps you select your components, making sure they're compatible before spending $$$ and installing them on your bike.

Have a nice Ultegra 6870 setup but want the [newer R8000 shifters](/component/ultegra-dual-control-lever-st-r8050) so that you have [extra buttons on the hoods](/enable-the-buttons-on-your-di2-shifter-hoods)? You can!

Want to use the [mountain bike Di2 display](/component/xt-display-junction-sc-mt800) on your road bike? You can!

Feel like upgrading your derailleurs but not your shifters? Sure! You can!

## 12-speed Di2 compatibility
Before I get started though, a quick note on 12-speed Di2 compatibility. Shimano released their [12-speed DURA-ACE and Ultegra Di2](/dura-ace-r9250-ultegra-r8150-wireless-di2/) groupsets to the world on September 1st, 2021. 

While Shimano has been pretty good with backward compatibility in the past, these new groupsets actually feature *very* limited compatibility with the older Di2 series. There is [a page on 12-speed compatibility](/12-speed-r9200-r8100-and-11-speed-di2-compatibility/), so read that if you're looking for 12-speed Di2 information. 

The remainder of this page applies to 11-speed and 10-speed Di2 compatibility, **not** the newer 12-speed Di2.

## Compatibility chart? Where? How does it work?
The latest version of the compatibility chart can be found on the [Shimano e-Tube project website](https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/e-tube/project/compatibillity.html). At the time of writing the latest version of the chart is 5.0.1.

Let’s say you want to know whether your [Ultegra RD-6870-GS](/component/ultegra-medium-cage-rear-derailleur-rd-6870-GS) rear derailleur and [Dura-Ace ST-R9150 shifters](/component/dura-ace-dual-control-lever-st-r9150) are compatible with each other. Start with your battery and work your way down.

![Di2 e-tube compatibility - connected boxes](https://assets.bettershifting.com/di2_etube_compatibility_boxes_connected_87eca69a3c.png)

In the image above I have selected the [SM-EW90](/component/below-the-stem-junction-a-sm-ew90) Junction box, [R9150-series Dura-Ace shifters](/component/dura-ace-dual-control-lever-st-r9150) and two 11-speed derailleurs; the [RD-6870 Ultegra rear derailleur](/component/ultegra-medium-cage-rear-derailleur-rd-6870-GS) and the [Ultegra FD-R8050 front derailleur](/component/ultegra-front-derailleur-fd-r8050-f). Note that I could also have selected the [Dura-Ace FD-R9150 front derailleur](/component/dura-ace-front-derailleur-fd-r9150-f) if I wanted to.

Shimano recommends you use components all from the same series, because that’s when they perform best. However, this isn’t feasible for everyone and fortunately, they allow you to use different generation components on the same bike..

The only thing you can never do is mix different speed **derailleurs** or mtb / gravel / road **derailleurs**. **__All derailleurs have to support either 10-speed or 11-speed and from the same ‘category’__**.

### Mixing MTB and Road/GRX components
So.. can you use mountain bike di2 hardware with road hardware? Sort of… it’s complicated. You can definitely use road shifters on a mountain bike – but would you really want to? However, let’s say you wanted to build a 1×11 Di2 setup? You’d probably want to take advantage of the Clutch System Shimano equipped the mountain bike rear derailleurs with, but use your road shifters. You should be able to do this no problem! Alternatively you can use a [GRX rear derailleur](/component/grx-2x-rear-derailleur-rd-rx815) with road shifters, or the [Ultegra RX805 clutch rear derailleur](/component/ultegra-shadow-rd-rear-derailleur-rd-rx805-gs). 

The only real limitation is that derailleurs you use have to be either road/gravel or mountain bike derailleurs – **__you cannot mix these derailleurs__**. Other than that you’re free to do whatever you want.

<LImage width="250" height="250" alt="Alfine MU-S705 motor unit" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/component_MU_S705_c44237316f.jpeg" />

## E-Bikes, Di2 hubs, motor units
Plenty of people are building Di2 E-Bikes using the [MU-S705](/component/alfine-internal-geared-hub-motor-unit-mu-s705/) or **MU-U500**/**MU-U510** motor units and [Internal Geared Hubs](https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/alfine-s7050s705-di2/SG-S7051-11.html). 

While the hubs are Di2-specific, they are not actually connected to the Di2 system. They're just designed to work with the Di2 motor units and can handle the forces the motor units produce.

When it comes to compatibility though, looking up information on these units can be a little confusing. If you look up the hub, you'll find only a couple of entries. 

So what gives? Are the hubs only compatible with Bosch E-Bikes? Are the hubs not compatible with current parts at all?

Don't worry - everything is fine. You see, for compatibility purposes, that hub does not matter at all. **Di2 compatibility** for these systems is **determined by the drive unit**. Ignore the hub, just look at the MU-UR500/510 and the MU-S705 entries instead.

## Compatibility charts
Like you’ve read above, I've linked the Shimano Di2 compatibility charts. Click the image below to view the full compatibility chart PDF. Note that the pages relevant to your setup depend on which series hardware and, perhaps more importantly, which battery or battery mount you’re using.

[![Di2 e-tube compatibility charts image link](https://assets.bettershifting.com/di2_etube_compatibility_charts_link_e9de0203b8.png)](https://bike.shimano.com/content/dam/e-tube/assets/images/contents/project/compatibillity/pdf/en/HM-CC_5.0.1-00-EN.pdf)

featured-di2-etube-compatibility

Di2 Compatibility - mix Ultegra, DURA-ACE, XTR, XT and GRX components

Ever since [I built that Cinelli](/build-log-cinelli-veltrix-disc-di2/) a few years ago, my 6870-series Di2 has been on Zwift duty - installed on my dedicated indoor bike. It worked great, but I didn't use the front derailleur all that much. Mainly because I just did a lot of ERG mode workouts. 

At the same time, my commuter bike was restricted to 1x, and there were times when I wanted more gears. 

When I spotted Profile Design's [Aeroport adapter](https://www.profile-design-eu.com/products/aeroport-di2-rs910-adapter) I could no longer resist - it was time to move my old Di2 gear to the commuter bike! Not only would I gain a front derailleur and therefore more gears, it would also let me experiment with the [7972 series satellite shifters](/component/dura-ace-10-speed-sprint-shifter-sw-7972/) my [local bike shop](https://koers.cc) gave me.

![SW-7972 box](https://assets.bettershifting.com/aeroport_commuter_0_box_6fe06eb23a.jpg)

## Aeroport? What's that?!
The Aeroport is a [Profile Design product](https://www.profile-design-eu.com/products/aeroport-di2-rs910-adapter) that will let you secure the [EW-RS910 junction](/component/frame-handlebar-junction-a-ew-rs910/) as well as the [BT-DN110 Internal Battery](/component/internal-battery-bt-dn110/) in your aero bars. 

Why would you not just put the [EW-RS910](/component/frame-handlebar-junction-a-ew-rs910/) in one of the drops? 
Well, time-trial bikes generally don't have drops. Sure, you could use the older [SM-EW90-B below-the-stem junction](/component/below-the-stem-junction-a-sm-ew90/) instead, but that is hardly aerodynamic, and it looks a bit messy.

And yeah… my commuter isn't really a time-trial bike. It does have a regular road handlebar with drops. I thought it'd be a fun experiment to put the battery in the aero bars, and that's what I did!

## SW-7972 and Ultegra 6870 are not compatible
If you've ever played with older Di2 components, you may know that the SW-7972 10-speed DURA-ACE shifters and 11-speed Ultegra 6870 [are not compatible](/in-depth-guide-on-upgrading-your-old-di2-bike/). 

The 7970 series has a different plug and will only work with other 7970 series components. It does not work with anything other than 7970 Di2.

<LImage alt="7970 plug vs SD50 plug" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/upgrade_7970_plug_8027f19974.jpeg" width="900" height="385" caption="EW-SD50 wire on the left, 7970 Di2 wire on the right" />

However, these SW-7972 satellite shifters are very much like [SW-R610 sprint shifter](/component/remote-sprint-shifter-sw-r610/) and the [12-speed SW-RS801 satellite shifters](/component/dura-ace-12-speed-satellite-drops-sprint-shifter-sw-rs801-s/). 

They are *dumb* shifters, without any firmware. Plug them into the dedicated satellite shifter port, tell E-Tube Project/Cyclist that you're using satellite shifters and that's it, they'll work.

*Any* ‘dumb' button will work in the satellite shifter ports, as long as the plug fits.

Obviously, the 7972 plug doesn't fit my [ST-6870 shift lever](/component/ultegra-dual-control-lever-st-6870/) *satellite shifter port*, but there is a way around that. You see, regular [SD50](/component/di2-electric-wire-ew-sd50/) plugs *do* fit into that port… 

To make the SW-7972 shifter work I simply took one of my spare [SD50 wires](/component/di2-electric-wire-ew-sd50/), cut it in half, and then spliced the SW-7972 wire into that. 

When done correctly, you end up with two SW-7972 shifters with [SD50](/component/di2-electric-wire-ew-sd50/) connectors.

Let's walk through the process step by step. This is what I started with, [the SW-7972 sprint shifter](/component/dura-ace-10-speed-sprint-shifter-sw-7972/).

<LImage alt="SW-7972 sprint shifter" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/aeroport_commuter_1_SW_7972_23fcf720fd.jpg" width="1150" height="602" />

It was given to me by a local bike shop, [Koers.cc](https://koers.cc). It was of no use to them anymore, and they figured I could use it somehow.

So yeah… I cut it up.

<LImage alt="SW-7972 sprint shifter cut up" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/aeroport_commuter_2_SW_7972_8d4811b5e6.jpg" width="1150" height="631" />

Even though the 7970 series uses a 5-wire system, each of the sprint shifter wires has just two tiny wires inside. 

See that "**KG**" sticker on the shifter? That means this component was made [July 2012](/frequently-asked-questions/how-can-i-determine-a-shimano-component-manufacturing-date/). 

Next, I took an [EW-SD50 wire](/component/di2-electric-wire-ew-sd50/), and cut that in half.
<LImage alt="Cut up an EW-SD50 wire" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/aeroport_commuter_3_cut_SD_50_35e6922add.jpg" width="850" height="687" />

Inside were - no surprise here - two small wires.

<LImage alt="Splice two wires together" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/aeroport_commuter_4_sd50_7970_209c1313d6.jpg" width="1150" height="639" />

The SD50 wire is shown on the left, the [SW-7972 shifter](/component/dura-ace-10-speed-sprint-shifter-sw-7972/) and wire on the right.

Stripping the wires was the hardest part of the process. They may look pretty beefy in the photo above, but keep in mind that the diameter of an SD50 wire is just **2mm**.  Each of the small wires inside is *less than* 1mm in diameter.

It took me a couple of tries to get it right, but eventually, I stripped the wires.  

All that was left now was to splice the wires - connect the two together. There are [several methods of doing so](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7GlDBge_WU). I went with the soldering method, but the others would probably work well enough too.

<LImage alt="Test the levers" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/aeroport_commuter_xy_three_images_levers_dc3f040021.jpg" width="1150" height="500" />

I repeated the process for the other sprint shifter and other half of that SD50 wire, and made sure to test the end result before I actually installed it on my bike.

<YouTube videoId="md9iKYdozNY" />

## Installing the battery and junction
With the sprint shifters working just fine, it was time to unpack the Aeroport and see how that would fit. I decided to put the [EW-RS910 junction](/component/frame-handlebar-junction-a-ew-rs910/) in the right aero extension, and the [BT-DN110 Internal Battery](/component/internal-battery-bt-dn110/) in the left. 

Why not the other way around? Ultimately this is up to the user, but the [EW-RS910 junction](/component/frame-handlebar-junction-a-ew-rs910/) is usually installed in the right handlebar drop. It just feels natural to me to have it on that side, so that's where I put it.

<LImage alt="Aeroport commuter boxes" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/aeroport_commuter_box_6b17da75d7.jpg" width="1150" height="486" />

The Aeroport comes in a little box, and inside you'll find two pieces of plastic/rubber - the battery/junction holders.

<LImage alt="Profile Design Aeroport" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/aeroport_commuter_6_on_stone_004a86460f.jpg" width="1150" height="637" />

You essentially slide these over the battery and the junction box. That looks something like this:

<YouTube videoId="f19kebNx1mA" />

Note that even though I've used the older [SM-BTR2 battery](/component/deprecated-internal-battery-sm-btr2/) in the image above, that is not the best battery for this bike. With only one button at the end of each aero extension, that means I won't be able to shift the front derailleur. 

This **BTR2** battery does **not** support [synchronized shift](/di2-synchronized-shifting-the-complete-guide/), but the newer [BT-DN110](/component/internal-battery-bt-dn110/) does. 

I may still swap out the battery at some point, but for now, just being able to shift the rear will suffice. It *is* my commuter, after all. I'm not going to ride time trials using this bike.

## Wiring up the battery, junction, and shifters
With the Aeroport figured out, I decided it was time to install everything on the bike and connect the [shifters](/component/ultegra-dual-control-lever-st-6870/), [battery](/component/deprecated-internal-battery-sm-btr2/), and [EW-RS910 Junction](/component/frame-handlebar-junction-a-ew-rs910/).

This should be a piece of cake. After all, the satellite shifters plug into the regular shift levers, and you can then choose from [a number of methods to connect everything to the EW-RS910 Junction](/component/frame-handlebar-junction-a-ew-rs910/).

However, since I'm installing both the battery and *and* the main junction in the aero bars, things got a little complicated… and I decided to draw some wiring schematics first.

Each [ST-6870 shifter](/component/ultegra-dual-control-lever-st-6870/) has two SD50 type ports, and one satellite shifter port. The [EW-RS910 junction](/component/frame-handlebar-junction-a-ew-rs910/) has two ports as well, and the battery has just one port.

<LImage alt="Aeroport commuter wiring schematic" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/aeroport_commuter_7_schematic_633a94ddb2.png" width="1150" height="746" />

You can definitely get this to work, but it takes careful planning. For example, you could

- Connect the left shifter to the battery
- Connect the left shifter to the [EW-RS910 Junction](/component/frame-handlebar-junction-a-ew-rs910/)
- Connect the left shifter satellite shifter to its dedicated port
- Connect the right shifter to the [EW-RS910 Junction](/component/frame-handlebar-junction-a-ew-rs910/)
- Connect the right shifter satellite shifter to its dedicated port
- Connect the right shifter to the rest of the system using a long [EW-SD50 wire](/component/di2-electric-wire-ew-sd50/)

Or any other combination of the above. As long as all components are connected, they will work.

In my specific case though, I had only a limited set of [EW-SD50 wires](/component/di2-electric-wire-ew-sd50/) to work with - the ones in my big "*Di2 stuff*" box. They didn't match my situation perfectly, so came up with an alternative wiring setup. 

Besides, I didn't really like having three wires come out of each shifter, and I wanted to have a spare E-Tube port… just in case. 

So I added a second [SM-JC41 internal junction](/component/internal-junction-b-sm-jc41/) to the system. 

That looks like this:

<LImage alt="Aeroport commuter wiring schematic" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/aeroport_commuter_8_schematic_connected_d005cb0b82.png" width="1150" height="883" />

This seems alright, but I'm not done yet. 

I haven't connected the satellite sprint shifters yet, so let's do that now. I placed the satellite shifters at the end of the aero bars, letting me shift the rear derailleur at all times.

This means I have to run a Di2 wire from each aero extension to the closest shift lever, adding yet another wire to the handlebar:

<LImage alt="Aeroport commuter wiring schematic" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/aeroport_commuter_9_schematic_full_94f70c4526.png" width="1150" height="811" />

This looks OK, right? Tell me it's not just me going crazy here. 

Most of the wires should be completely hidden from view. They'll be in the aero bars, or underneath the handlebar tape. 

With the wiring all thought out, let's actually install the components. A diagram is nice, but it won't make the derailleurs shift.

## Installing the components on the bike
Before installing the battery and all the wires, I checked whether or not I would actually be able to route the Di2 wires the way I intended. My main worry was the battery - it's 15cm in length, so would I actually be able to access the aero bar's wiring port?

Well…. It turns out I can!

<LImage alt="Fit the battery into aero bars" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/aeroport_commuter_10_battery_fit_31dae360ac.jpg" width="1150" height="747" />

Only just, but yep - looks like we're all good. Let's go!

With a wiring setup this extensive, where do you start? I decided to start where everything comes together - that [SM-JC41 junction](/component/internal-junction-b-sm-jc41/). 

I used the [PRO Internal Routing Tool](/component/pro-internal-routing-tool/) to run all wires through the aero bars, and connected these to the JC41 junction. This meant connecting the battery, as well as running a Di2 wire to the left shift lever.

<LImage alt="Junction and battery installed in the aero bars" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/aeroport_commuter_11_battery_jc41_going_in_875a2bf84e.jpg" width="1150" height="810" />

Here is an image of the battery right before I connected it and inserted it into the aero bar. 

On the right side of the stem, you can see the [SM-JC41 junction](/component/internal-junction-b-sm-jc41/) sticking out of the aero bar, with the battery wire and left shifter wire already plugged in.

There was a bit of room for the JC41 junction to bounce around, and that's not surprising. It's only 30.5mm long, 14.5mm wide, and 8mm high.  I wrapped it in a bit of tape to stop it from moving around. No one likes noisy bikes.

Next, I connected the [EW-RS910 Junction A](/component/frame-handlebar-junction-a-ew-rs910/) to the B-junction and the right shifter, and installed the [Profile Aeroport holder](https://www.profile-design-eu.com/products/aeroport-di2-rs910-adapter). I shoved it into the aero bar, and that was that. All done!

<LImage alt="Both battery and junction completely installed" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/aeroport_commuter_12_battery_junction_installed_0e84efc21d.jpg" width="1150" height="883" />

Well, not really.

While this looks okay at first glance, those two wires crossing over from left to right look problematic. This is a commuter bike, and it'll probably see some above. I definitely don't want these wires to get caught in someone else's handlebar, and damaged in the process.

Besides, having the two wires just hanging there looks pretty bad. 

<LImage alt="Aeroport commuter wires crossing over" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/aeroport_commuter_13_wires_are_crossing_9442df1d82.jpg" width="1150" height="688" />

Looking at my wiring schematic, these wires turning out this *messy* isn't a surprise at all. In fact, I saw this coming and thought of a solution before I even got started. 

## Profile Design Aerobridge
Not only do Profile Design make an [Aeroport](https://www.profile-design-eu.com/products/aeroport-di2-rs910-adapter) to securely hold the Di2 battery and main junction, they also created the "*[Aerobridge](https://www.profile-design-eu.com/products/ucm-aerobridge-1)*".

<LImage alt="Profile Design Aerobridge" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/aeroport_commuter_14_aerobridge_4a790d4921.jpg" width="1150" height="592" />

What's this? Well, it's basically another piece of plastic that you secure to both aero bars using two clamps and bolts, *bridging the aero* between them.  
(sorry)

The Aeroport is a "*multi-purpose computer mount that can be positioned on any round section of the aerobar*".  This is exactly what I'll do - and at the same time, it's a neat bit of camouflage for those wires. 

Before I show you the finished bike, here's one last work-in-progress image.

<LImage alt="Aeroport commuter from the front, almost done" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/aeroport_commuter_15_almost_done_63bd6dfcb7.jpg" width="1150" height="615" />

The Aeroport is in place, but there's still a lot of exposed wire in the shot. At this point I decided to wrap the handlebars and aero bars, hiding all of these wires from view.

(and don't worry, I also installed the brake cables)

<LImage alt="Aeroport commuter from the saddle" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/aeroport_commuter_16_done_from_saddle_804492c15e.jpg" width="1150" height="705" />

This is what it looks like from above. Pretty neat, right?

<LImage alt="Aeroport commuter finished - from above" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/aeroport_commuter_17_from_above_854032562e.jpg" width="1150" height="989" />

And finally, here's the view from below. You can see some exposed wires, but unless you look underneath the handlebar, they're all hidden from view.

<LImage alt="Aeroport commuter from below" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/aeroport_commuter_18_from_below_3d54f8973d.jpg" width="1150" height="764" />

## What's next?
That's it - the bike is all done. I've ridden it to work a couple of times, and it rides just like any Di2 bike should - perfect and immediate shifting.

So what's next for this bike? 

Well… I'd really like to upgrade that battery to the [BT-DN110](/component/internal-battery-bt-dn110/) someday. That'll let me enable synchronized shift so that I no longer need to take my hands off the aero bars to shift the front derailleur.

This being a commuter bike though, I'm not in any hurry. If I run into a discounted [BT-DN110](/component/internal-battery-bt-dn110/) battery I'll probably buy that, but it can definitely wait.

How about you? Have you ever hacked your Di2 components to complete your special project? I'd love to hear about that, so be sure to [send me a message](/contact/), or leave a comment below.

small_aeroport_commuter_featured.jpg

thumbnail_aeroport_commuter_featured.jpg

aeroport_commuter_featured.jpg

I installed SW-7972 Dura-Ace satellite shifters on my 6870 commuter bike by doing some cutting and soldering, as well as some creative wiring. Enjoy the build log!

Installing the handlebar junction and battery in aero extensions

Released in 2016, the Shimano R9150 (rim brake) and R9170 are described by Shimano as system engineering at its peak. Each of the components magnifies the qualities of the others for an unparalleled level of performance. Optimizing input to maximize output. That’s how it achieves supremacy.

TT / Bar-end shifting switches

DURA-ACE SW-R9160

Synchronized Shift

Affiliate Links

No wireless

Specifications

Related components

Related pages

Build a 12-speed Di2 Time Trial / Triathlon bike

Di2 Compatibility - mix Ultegra, DURA-ACE, XTR, XT and GRX components

Installing the handlebar junction and battery in aero extensions

Manuals & other documents