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The FD-R9250 is Shimano's new **12 speed Di2** Front Derailleur, to be used with the semi-wireless R9250 groupset.

It works with the [BT-DN300 battery](/compon

FD-R8150_FD-R9250_front_derailleur_dealer_manual.pdf

FD-R9250 Dealer Manual

12sp-di2-general-dealer-manual.pdf

12-Speed Di2 general Dealer Manual

Shimano-DM-TORQUE-02-ENG.pdf

Shimano Torque Chart

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## Backward compatibility
This 12-speed front derailleur is meant to be used with a 12-speed road rear derailleur. It will not work with 11-speed derailleurs or MTB derailleurs.

Want to know more about 11-speed and 12-speed compatibility? [Read my guide on 12-speed compatibility](/12-speed-r9200-r8100-and-11-speed-di2-compatibility/).

Installing the 12-speed [DURA-ACE FD-R9250](/component/dura-ace-front-derailleur-fd-r9250-f/) and [Ultegra FD-R8150](/component/ultegra-front-derailleur-fd-r8150-f/) is easier than ever. Wireless connectivity comes standard on Di2 bikes now, and you can use the [mobile app - E-Tube Cyclist](/di2-e-tube-software-and-downloads/) to set up the front derailleur.

They don’t have any limit bolts, those are all set electronically. You do have to set the correct derailleur height and angle, however. 

## Tools and Preparation
The tools needed for installation are:

- [Shimano TL-EW300 cable plug tool](/component/di2-cable-plug-tool-tl-ew300/)
- Size 2 hex wrench
- Size 5 hex wrench
- Ideally, a torque wrench ([Shimano Torque Chart](https://assets.bettershifting.com/Shimano_DM_TORQUE_02_ENG_4ed1b89643.pdf))

<LImage width="1150" height="909" alt="FD-R8150 parts" caption="The 12-speed Ultegra Front Derailleur comes with a bolt and washer, a wire cover, and the support plate (not pictured)" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/component_FD_R8150_parts_6a0850001a.jpg" />

### When there is a mounting boss on the frame
First, you’ll need to attach the front derailleur to the frame. How you do this depends on the frame itself. If your frame has a mounting boss, you take your **size 5 hex wrench** to loosely screw in the mounting bolt and attach the derailleur to the frame. 

Tighten the bolt lightly - you’ll probably loosen it again later to fine-tune the height and angle.

These derailleurs have a tiny bolt that goes through the derailleur and comes out the back. You’ll later tighten this bolt to sit flush against the frame, giving the derailleur something to push against when shifting. 

Now check where the derailleur’s support bolt hits the frame,  and stick the support plate on the frame by peeling off the liner on the back. The support plate is the small metal plate you got with the front derailleur - it’s there to prevent damage to the frame itself.

Note that if the support bolt touches the frame’s mounting boss itself, you may not need the support plate. I haven’t used the support plate [on my Cinelli](/build-log-cinelli-veltrix-disc-di2/), for example. 

The support bolt should touch the side of the backup plate without the tape. Tighten the bolt until it touches the backup plate.

![12-speed FD support plate](https://assets.bettershifting.com/install_12sp_fd_to_frame_c993482565.JPG)

### When there is no mounting boss on the frame
If the frame you’re using does not have a mounting boss you will need a Front-derailleur band adapter. 

While you can probably get away with using any band adapter, I recommend using the one Shimano make, the [SM-AD91 band adapter](/component/front-derailleur-road-clamp-band-adapter-sm-ad91/).

Install the band adapter to the front derailleur using a **size 5 hex wrench** and the provided bolt. You do not have to install the support plate, since you'll tighten the support bolt to sit flush against the clamp band. It won't damage your expensive frame.

Now tighten the derailleur’s support bolt using a **size 2 hex wrench** until it only just touches the clamp band.
Remove the clamp bolt from the clamp band, attach the band to your frame and insert and tighten the clamp bolt. Do not tighten it fully yet, as we haven’t checked the height of the front derailleur yet.

![12-speed FD clamp band and support bolt](https://assets.bettershifting.com/install_fd_clamp_band_5c0bcc1239.png)

## Connect the electric wire
We’ll use the [E-Tube Cyclist mobile app](/di2-e-tube-software-and-downloads/) in the next step, so now is the time to connect the electric wire to the front derailleur. 

If you haven’t installed the battery yet, I also recommend doing so now. Here’s a [guide on installing a seatpost battery](/internal-seatpost-di2-battery-installation-guide/). When you read that guide, keep in mind that the 12-speed systems don’t use a Junction B - the guide was written for the 11-speed Di2 originally.

Once the battery has been installed, connect both the front derailleur, and the rear derailleur. 

If you have two wires of different length, use the shorter of the two for the front derailleur.

Put the plug cover on the electric wire, and push it into the E-Tube port. You should feel and (usually) hear it click into place. 

For **Ultegra** and **Dura-Ace** 12-speed front derailleurs, that looks like this:

<LImage src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/install_fd_connect_wire_ultegra_duraace_299aee81fe.png" height="484" width="1000" alt="FD-R8150 and FD-R9250 wire and cover" />

For **105 FD-R7150**, that looks like this:

<LImage src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/install_fd_connect_wire_105_3decded49f.png" width="1000" height="546" alt="FD-R7150 wire and cover" />

Don’t have the plug cover? Or lost yours? The front derailleur will work just fine without it - the prototype front derailleur that was on my media bike didn’t have this plug cover.

<LImage width="1150" height="686" alt="FD-R8150 with wire connected" caption="This looks a bit flimsy, but the wire is well-secured" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/component_FD_R8150_back3_ea54aada8c.jpg" />

The cover does improve wire routing though, and therefore I’d definitely install it. Need to order a new one? The **part number** is **Y2JP06000**.

If you ever want to take the wire out, by the way, you can slide the [TL-EW300 tool](/component/di2-cable-plug-tool-tl-ew300/) into the groove on the plug cover as shown in the image above. That should get you some extra leverage and help take the wire out.

## Set the front derailleur height
To set the front derailleur height and angle, the crankset has to be installed. Do so if you haven’t already, and come back to this guide when you’ve completed installing the crankset.

The Shimano documentation doesn't explicitly state whether or not the front derailleur should be in the little or big ring, so it may not matter all that much. All the images show the front derailleur in the **small ring** at this point though, so that's what I tend to do myself.

### Loosen the fixing screw
Loosen the front derailleur **fixing screw** using your **size 5 hex** key, and move the derailleur to the correct height.

![12-speed FD installation height](https://assets.bettershifting.com/install_fd_derailleur_height_62a8945123.jpg)

Wondering what the correct height is? Take a look at the image above. Shift the FD so that it is above the largest chainring, and make sure there is about **1 to 3 mm** between the front derailleur outer plate and the chainring.

Don’t tighten the fixing bolt right away, because you’ll also set the front derailleur angle now. 

I’ll quote the Shimano dealer manual here, because it just makes sense:

> Perform adjustment so that the **flat surface of the outer plate** is in a position **directly above the largest chainring** and that the **rear edge** of the outer plate is **inwards by 0.5 - 1 mm** compared to the front edge”

So, what does this mean? Basically, the front of the derailleur plate must be above the largest ring, while the rear edge is angled in **0.5 - 1mm**.

![front derailleur angled in](https://assets.bettershifting.com/FD_RX_8_F_set_angle_1024x752_f58f6b6e4e.png)

Now let’s straighten up the Front Derailleur so that the chain guide outer plates are in line with the chainring. Use a **size 2 hex wrench** to adjust the support bolt. It’ll push against the support plate (or clamp band), and push the derailleur out a bit.

Make sure that the flat portion of the chain guide outer plate is aligned with the surface of the largest chainring. If the support bolt does not touch the support plate, move the support plate so that it does.

![Set up the support bolt to angle the derailleur back out](https://assets.bettershifting.com/FD_RX_8_F_support_bolt_straighten_1024x609_b169a2d49b.png)

## Limits - using the mobile app
Finally, let’s set the derailleur’s limits. Shimano’s Ultegra and Dura-Ace 12-speed front derailleurs don’t have any *limit bolts*. There are two ways to set the limits. 

<NewContentAlert title="105 users - read this other guide" text="The 12-speed 105 front derailleurs do not have a high electric limit, they use an adjustment bolt instead. I have published a separate page to help you set up these derailleurs." link="/installation-guide/set-up-105-front-derailleur-limits-fd-r7150/" link_text="105 FD-R7150 Limits/Adjustment guide" />

You can either shift to the right combinations of gears in the correct order and set all three limits… or you can use the mobile app and let it guide you through the process.

Using the mobile app is a lot easier, less error-prone, and - since all 12-speed systems have wireless connectivity out of the box - that’s what I’ll use.

Feel free to look up the *manual* method in the [Front Derailleur Dealer Manual (page 16)](https://assets.bettershifting.com/FD_R8150_FD_R9250_front_derailleur_dealer_manual_539331034f.pdf) and set the limits that way.

This method is still useful for those of us without Android/iOS phones or tablets… but if you do have such a device, please just use E-Tube Cyclist. It is so much easier.

To get started, download E-Tube Cyclist:

- [Apple iOS](https://apps.apple.com/us/app/e-tube-project-for-smartphone/id1176407871)
- [Android](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.shimano.etubeprojectmobile.droid.phone&hl=en)

Next, enable **Bluetooth** on your phone if it isn’t already, and start **E-Tube Cyclist**.

Locate the button on the rear derailleur and press it for **0.5 - 2 seconds**. The LED will flash blue, indicating **Bluetooth connection mode**.

Now connect to the bike using the mobile app, or add the bike to the app, if this is your first time connecting to it.

![E-Tube Cyclist home](https://assets.bettershifting.com/install_fd_etp_select_maintenance_072ede0783.jpg)

Open the **maintenance** tab, and then, under *Derailleur adjustment*, select **Front**. 

That’ll then take you to a screen that is a bit confusing. It tells you to shift to the gear combination displayed on the screen. 

Don’t bother, you can’t.

Press **Start**, and it’ll perform the shifts for you. All you need to do is rotate the cranks.

![The E-Tube App will shift to the right gear for you](https://assets.bettershifting.com/install_fd_etp_shift_for_you_ae4d164984.jpg)

### Set the High limit
Now, we’ll set the high limit. You’ll do this twice, actually.

First, with the rear derailleur in the top position - the hardest gear.

<LImage alt="Set Front Derailleur high limit" caption="Set the gap between chain and outer plate to 0.5 - 1.0mm" width="1150" height="874" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/install_fd_etp_adjust_high_limit_b49e20536a.jpg" />

Now use the left and right arrows to adjust the gap between the chain and the front derailleur **outer plate** to **0.5 - 1.0 mm**. 

When it adjusts its position, the front derailleur will overrun slightly - and then move back to its final position. This is done to help you see the adjustment direction. 

When checking the position of the chain and chain guide, do so after the derailleur has come to a complete stop.

Once you’re satisfied with the setting, tap **Next**.

The screen now asks you to move the rear derailleur to the low position - the largest sprocket. 

It’ll perform the shifts for you, of course.

![The E-Tube App will shift to the right gear for you](https://assets.bettershifting.com/insta_fd_shift_for_you_2_top_low_a8af57a502.jpg)

Now adjust the front derailleur’s top limit setting again, but severely cross-chained.

<LImage alt="Set Front Derailleur high limit" caption="Set the gap between chain and inner plate to 0 - 0.5mm" width="1112" height="810" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/install_fd_etp_adjust_high_top_limit_2_d67c81c7df.jpg" />

This time around, set the distance between the chain and front derailleur **inner plate** to **0 - 0.5mm**.

When you’re happy with the front derailleur position, use the **Next** button to go to the final step.

### Set the low limit
You’ll see the screen below, indicating you’re getting ready to set the front derailleur **low** limit.

Tap **start**, and it’ll shift to the right gear automatically.

![The E-Tube App will shift to the right gear for you](https://assets.bettershifting.com/install_fd_etp_shift_for_you_low_top_3_0a306655dd.jpg)

Again you’ll be asked to set the distance between the chain and front derailleur **inner plate** to **0 - 0.5mm**. 

Don’t worry - this isn’t a duplicate of the previous step. This time you’re setting the front derailleur’s low limit.

<LImage alt="Set Front Derailleur high limit" caption="Set the gap between chain and inner plate to 0 - 0.5mm" width="1150" height="812" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/install_fd_etp_set_low_limit_3_636fe43ad0.jpg" />

Did that work? If you’re happy with your settings, use that **Done** button to complete the process.

You can now go through the app and change other settings if you like, or disconnect the bike and enjoy the ride. Just make sure you use the **disconnect button**. If you don’t, the bike won’t respond.

## All done!
Your front derailleur should be adjusted perfectly now. If it isn’t though, keep in mind that you can repeat these steps any time you feel like it.

In case you're wondering - the derailleur has a total of 38 positions, as well as its neutral position. This means that it can move 19 steps in either direction.

Feel free to [send me a message](/contact/) or just leave a comment if you’re having problems getting your derailleur to shift perfectly.




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Twelve-speed Di2 Front Derailleurs do not have any limit bolts, so installing the derailleur and setting the limits is different from what you're used to. 

Don't worry, though, it's easy!  I'll show you how to install the 12-speed Di2 front derailleur, and set its limits and micro-adjustment.

12-speed Front Derailleur installation and adjustment guide

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Just bought a new 12-speed Di2 bike? This page explains what the buttons do, how to charge (and how often), and what synchronized shift is. Read my 12-speed Di2 new user manual and learn more!

12-speed Di2 New User Guide

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Building a 12-speed Di2 Time Trial (TT) or Triathlon bike isn't as straightforward as you might think. This guide shows what components you can use, and how to connect the SD50 type shifters and SD300 drivetrain to each other.

Build a 12-speed Di2 Time Trial / Triathlon bike

Shimano's first ever 12-speed Di2 groupset, DURA-ACE R9200 was announced September 1st, 2021. It features wireless shifting, improved disc brakes, and of course, 12-speed cassettes.

Front Derailleur

DURA-ACE FD-R9250-F

Wireless, but wired

Affiliate Links

Backward compatibility

Specifications

Related components

Related pages

12-speed Front Derailleur installation and adjustment guide

12-speed Di2 New User Guide

Build a 12-speed Di2 Time Trial / Triathlon bike

Manuals & other documents