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The ST-R9270 Hydraulic Disc Brake levers weigh about **175g** per lever. 

Just like the previous DURA-ACE dual control levers, these have 'hidden' buttons on t

12-speed-HDB-user-manual.pdf

ST-R9270 / ST-R8170 User Manual

12-speed-HDB-STI-satellite-dealer-manual.pdf

ST-R9270 / ST-R8170 / SW-RS801 Dealer Manual

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SD300 ports on Ultegra and Dura-Ace ports

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## Updating wireless levers
While you can customise these levers and change button assignments using the mobile app, you cannot easily update them. The levers need to be wired to the rest of the system in order to enable updating via the mobile app.

I have written a [guide on updating 12-speed wireless dual control levers](/update-the-firmware-on-12-speed-hydraulic-shift-levers/). Read that if you're stuck updating your levers, or simply [send me a message](/contact/).

If video is more your thing, watch [Rides of Japan](https://www.youtube.com/ridesofjapan) update his levers below:

<YouTube videoId="dmGG2P0-5fs" />

Shimano's first ever 12-speed Di2 groupset, DURA-ACE R9200 was announced September 1st, 2021. It features wireless shifting, improved disc brakes, and of course, 12-speed cassettes.

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DURA-ACE

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Disc Brake Dual Control Lever (Wireless)

Building a 12-speed bike using Shimano's hydraulic disc shift levers is a lot easier than it used to be. You connect the derailleurs and battery using [EW-SD300 wires](/component/di2-electric-wire-ew-sd300/).

Then, you pair your wireless shift levers: [DURA-ACE ST-R9270](/component/dura-ace-disc-brake-wireless-dual-control-lever-st-r9270/), [Ultegra ST-R8170](/component/ultegra-disc-brake-wireless-dual-control-lever-st-r8170/), or the [105 ST-R7170](/component/105-disc-brake-wireless-dual-control-lever-st-r7170/).

There are **three** ways to pair the wireless levers. 

- **Method 1** works by connecting both shift levers to the battery, as well as the rear derailleur (**not** 105 Di2).
- **Method 2** pairs the levers using the [SM-PCE02 tool](/component/pc-linkage-diagnostics-tool-sm-pce02/) and [E-Tube Project V5/Professional](/di2-e-tube-software-and-downloads/).
- **Method 3** involves scanning the QR code on the lever using the mobile app.
 
The **third** method is by far the easiest, and that's what I'll describe on this page. I'll also briefly describe **method 1** [further down this page](#pairbywire). This can be useful if your shift levers will not pair via the app, for any reason.

Note that pairing is **not possible** when the bike is charging. If you have the charger connected to the rear derailleur, make sure it is disconnected before you start.

## Pair using E-Tube Cyclist mobile app
If you haven't already, download [E-Tube Cyclist](https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/e-tube/project/formobile.html) - Shimano's mobile app.

Make sure **Bluetooth** is enabled on your phone, and start E-Tube Cyclist.

It'll look something like this:

![E-Tube Cyclist home](https://assets.bettershifting.com/pair_wireless_levers_etube_cyclist_home_865d2c0bb1.jpg)

Now, press-and-hold the button on the rear derailleur for **0.5 - 2 seconds**, and the LED will start **flashing blue**. This means the bike is now in Bluetooth connection mode - for about 30 seconds.

![RD-R9250 button](https://assets.bettershifting.com/002_rd_button_led_c2094c959b.jpg)

If you have previously connected to this bike using the mobile app, simply tap the bike when it shows '*detected*', and E-Tube will connect to the bike.

Is this your first time using E-Tube Cyclist? Then all you need to do is "**Register bike or power meter**" to add your bicycle to the app.

Once you have successfully connected to the bike, you'll see the **customize** page screen.

![Add wireless switches](https://assets.bettershifting.com/pair_wireless_levers_add_wireless_switches_cd1b7448c1.jpg)

Tap "**Add wireless switch**", and E-Tube will show you the list of paired switches and shift levers. None are paired at this time, so the list is empty. 

Next, tap the QR code symbol next to any of the "**Add switch**" boxes. The app will now switch on the camera and ask you to scan the QR code on the lever.

First I paired the **right** lever.

![Pair the right shift lever](https://assets.bettershifting.com/pair_wireless_lever_1_right_6f34c69c94.jpg)

And then the **left** lever. 

![Pair the left shift lever](https://assets.bettershifting.com/pair_wireless_lever_2_left_da31e7ea5a.jpg)

The order in which you pair the levers does not really matter, by the way.

That's it. Both levers are now paired.

Now... you may want to customise the lever buttons. For example, you can [set both hood buttons to shift the rear derailleur](/enable-the-buttons-on-your-di2-shifter-hoods/#mobile). Also, if you have connected satellite shifters to the levers, you'll have to enable those.

To do this, open the **customize** tab and tap the shift levers. You can now change the button assignments, and add *satellite shifters*.  E-Tube Cyclist will ask you to press a button on each shift lever, to make sure they're active and *awake*.

![Levers paired, now let's view settings](https://assets.bettershifting.com/pair_wireless_levers_open_levers_details_4bf02cd17b.jpg)

I have the [SW-RS801-T satellite switches](/component/dura-ace-12-speed-satellite-tops-shifter-sw-rs801-t/) installed on this bike, so let's enable those.

![PRO Vibe EVO](https://assets.bettershifting.com/000_pro_handlebar_inline_dd58a34fc2.jpg)

Tap the "**Satellite shifter**" button, and then check the boxes for each shift lever that has a satellite shifter connected to it. These satellite shifters are "*dumb*" devices, and the bike cannot detect them on its own.

![Add satellite shifters to levers](https://assets.bettershifting.com/pair_wireless_levers_satellite_shifters_324573af18.jpg)

As you can see, the satellite shifters have now appeared on the shift lever details page. You can assign any function to the satellite shifters, but having them shift the rear derailleurs makes the most sense.

When you click "**Apply**" to save your settings, it'll once again ask you to press a button on your shift levers.

![Save wireless shifter settings](https://assets.bettershifting.com/pair_wireless_levers_satellite_shifters_save_c45402cd56.jpg)

That's it! Your levers are all set up!

When you're done with the mobile app, make sure you tap that "**disconnect**" button. The bike won't respond to shift commands until you **disconnect**.

![Disconnect the bike when done](https://assets.bettershifting.com/pair_wireless_levers_done_disconnect_7aedd05abb.jpg)

If video is more your thing, here's me running through the process on Shimano's Wilier:

<YouTube videoId="X4vFTTJYehk" />

## Pair shift levers by wire {#pairbywire}
In some cases, your shift levers just won't pair. Usually, this can be resolved by pairing them using [EW-SD300 wires](/component/di2-electric-wire-ew-sd300/). You'll need **three** of these.

How do you ask? Well, you simply connect **both** shift levers to the battery. Then, connect the rear derailleur to the battery as well. 

![BT-DN300 battery](https://assets.bettershifting.com/001_battery_f7bfee41ba.jpg)

With **both** levers and the rear derailleur connected to the battery, locate the button on the rear derailleur and press it for **5 to 8 seconds**. The LED will then switch from **yellow** to **blue**. The system is now pairing.

A **blinking green** LED then indicates that pairing was successful, and you should now be able to use the levers.

Does your LED turn **red**? Then something went wrong. Make sure that all wires are connected, and really plugged in well. Also, double-check that you're using the shift levers **top** ports. The bottom ports are for satellite shifters **only**. 

Note that you can only pair successfully with **both** shifters connected. Attempting to pair with just one of them connected will likely fail.

## Help. My 12-speed shift lever won't pair
Sometimes Ultegra or Dura-Ace levers won't pair. You can try all you want, but nothing works. 

What you're running into here is most likely a bug in the unit's firmware. Shimano [released updated firmware](https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/e-tube/project/firmware/detail.html?model=ST-R8170) for both Ultegra and Dura-Ace levers at the time of release, but a lot of units shipped with the flawed firmware.

Most of the affected levers are left-hand-side shifters, but it is by no means exclusive to that side or shifter. Also, if the shift lever's serial number fifth-character-from-the-right is an '**X**' or a '**Y**', yours is likely one of the affected models. The serial number is printed just above the QR code.

### So what do you do, if your shifters won't pair?

[Install the firmware update](/installation-guide/update-the-firmware-on-12-speed-hydraulic-shift-levers/). That's it. Install the update, and they should pair just fine.

Updating the wireless shifter firmware requires a wired connection between the shifter and the rest of the Di2 system, or the [SM-PCE02](/component/pc-linkage-diagnostics-tool-sm-pce02/). How to explain the wireless shifters is explained in my [update wireless shifters guide](/installation-guide/update-the-firmware-on-12-speed-hydraulic-shift-levers/). 

## Done! Go ride that bike!
If you've made it all this way, that probably means the pairing was successful. Your bike should now be fully functional. Want to know how to unpair your shift levers? Then read my guide on [unpairing wireless Di2 shifters](/installation-guide/unpair-12-speed-wireless-di2-shifters/).

Having problems? Feel free to leave a comment below, or [send me an email](/contact/) - I'll help you any way I can.

Looking for more information on building a Di2 bike? the site's [installation guides](/installation-guides/) section is a good place to start.

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Pairing 12-speed Di2 wireless shift levers can be done using the mobile app, wires, or using the SM-PCE02. This page describes how to pair via mobile phone, and E-Tube EW-SD300 wires.

Pair 12-speed Wireless Di2 Shifters

Twelve-speed hydraulic Di2 shift levers can be set up to shift wirelessly. These shift levers are powered by coin cell batteries. There is [one CR1632](#linkstobatteries) in each Ultegra/Dura-Ace hydraulic lever, and **two** in the [105 Di2 shifters](/component/105-disc-brake-wireless-dual-control-lever-st-r7170/).

You’ll need to replace these batteries when they run out (after about two years for Dura-Ace/Ultegra, and four years for 105).

I’ll show you how to check the battery charge level of your Di2 shift levers, and how to replace the coin cell battery.

This guide is written for the DURA-ACE R9200 ([ST-R9270](/component/dura-ace-disc-brake-wireless-dual-control-lever-st-r9270/)). Ultegra R8100 ([ST-R8170](/component/ultegra-disc-brake-wireless-dual-control-lever-st-r8170/)) and 105 R7100 ([ST-R7170](/component/105-disc-brake-wireless-dual-control-lever-st-r7170/)) shift levers and will be updated for new wireless Di2 shift levers as they are released.

## Check the battery charge level
There are two ways to check the shifter’s battery level - the first is using the E-Tube Cyclist mobile app, and the other method involves pressing buttons on the shifters itself.

My personal favourite method is to use the buttons on the shift lever itself, so I’ll show that first.

### Check the shift lever battery on the lever itself
This method is by far the quickest and easiest, and it lets you check the battery level on a Di2 wireless shift lever in under a second.

How? Well, you simply **press both shift buttons** at the same time for about **0.5 seconds**.

The LED on the shift lever will switch on, indicating the battery level:

![Shift lever charge indicator](https://assets.bettershifting.com/lever_indicator_0cd9d6dbb3.jpg)

- **Green**: **11% to 100%** battery
- **Red**: **1% to 10%** battery level
- No LED: **0%**

If it’s **green**, you’re all good.

However, if your shifter LED turns **red**, you have about a month to go before it’ll go completely flat - buy a new CR1632 and replace that battery as soon as possible.

And yes, even though they're a bit harder to see, Ultegra and 105 levers *do* in fact have LEDs. 

### Check shift lever battery using E-Tube Cyclist
If you haven’t downloaded E-Tube Cyclist yet, make sure you do so. 12-speed Di2 systems come with BluetoothLE/ANT connectivity out of the box, so there is no reason not to have the app. 

The app is available for both Android and iOS, and I’ve put links to the app on my [Tools & Software](/di2-e-tube-software-and-downloads/) page.

To connect to the bike, press-and-hold the button on the rear derailleur for **0.5 - 2 seconds**. The LED will flash blue, indicating the bike is ready to connect over BluetoothLE. 

Make sure Bluetooth is enabled on your phone, start E-Tube Cyclist, and connect to the bike.

After connecting successfully, open the **maintenance** tab. This is where you’ll see your shifters and their battery level, as well as the [main battery - BT-DN300](/component/internal-battery-bt-dn300/).

![Check lever battery level](https://assets.bettershifting.com/connect_and_lever_battery_button_d3dfc4646a.jpg)

Chances are though, that your shift levers don’t immediately show their battery level. Instead, you’ll see a dash (**-**). 

To check the battery status for your levers, tap that ‘refresh’ icon - see the red arrow above.

![Check both lever battery status in mobile app](https://assets.bettershifting.com/check_both_levers_9517cc8534.jpg)

E-Tube Cyclist will ask you to press any of the buttons on your left lever, to ‘wake up’ the shift lever. Next, it’ll prompt you to press a button on the right lever.

That’s it! You will now see the battery charge level indicated by either a **green** or a **red** circle.

- **Green**: 11% to 100% battery6
- **Red**: 1% to 10%

If the circle is **red**, indicating a low battery level, replace yours within a month. 

## Replace your ST-R9270 / ST-R8170 shift lever battery
The hydraulic shifters have wireless functionality, and this works using a CR 1632 battery. Replacing this battery is an easy affair, and takes about two minutes. 

There’s a guide showing you how to replace the battery below, but if video is more your thing, I’ve uploaded one to YouTube and embedded it here:

<YouTube videoId="WEHEN5ihSAk" />

The battery is stored in the shifter hood, so pull back the lever cover to get to it:

![12-speed shift with the hood pulled back](https://assets.bettershifting.com/check_replace_di2_lever_battery_cover_off_3f963b5ef6.jpg)

Right at the top, you see the battery door (also: battery holder) - being held in place by that little screw. Take your screwdriver (flat, **0.8 x 4**) and loosen the screw. 

You can leave it in the battery holder if you like, but I prefer to take it all the way out and place it somewhere safe - that way you can’t lose it.

![Loosen Di2 shift lever battery door screw](https://assets.bettershifting.com/check_replace_di2_lever_battery_loosen_screw_0d64f647d9.jpg)

Open the battery holder, and you’ll see the battery right here:

![Shifter battery with door open](https://assets.bettershifting.com/check_replace_di2_lever_battery_battery_exposed_aca7b0c8fe.jpg)

It doesn’t come out that easily - it is secured by a little spring and just pulling it out won’t do.

Instead, you push ***down*** on the battery, and then slide it out. Sometimes the smooth top of the battery won’t give you enough friction to pull it out. Shimano advises against using pliers or other metal tools to force the battery out, as this could cause a short and possibly electronic malfunctions.

What you can do though, is take a bit of tape, and stick it to the top of the battery. You then push down and pull it out at the same time.

![Shifter battery holder](https://assets.bettershifting.com/check_replace_di2_lever_battery_battery_door_open_7fc707afd0.jpg)

According to the [dealer manual](/learn-how-to-use-the-shimano-documentation/), you should now inspect the (grey) seal for damage and dirt. 
Unless you’re riding your bike in horrendous conditions though, I don’t think you have to worry about that.

To install the new battery, you insert it into the battery holder with the positive (**+**) side up,  and then gently close the battery holder. That’s it. 

![Replace shifter battery](https://assets.bettershifting.com/check_replace_battery_close_battery_door_d42c68615e.png)

Tighten the screw, and wiggle the hood cover back into place. 

Note that the screw should be tight, but ***not*** too tight. Its job is just to keep the battery holder/door closed, and that’s all. You do not want to strip the threads on your expensive shift lever.

Once the battery has been installed you can immediately get back to riding. There is no need to re-pair the levers. 

## Replace your 105 / ST-R7170 batteries
The 105 shift levers have **two** batteries, and they'll last a very long time. You are unlikely to ever need to replace them. If yours ran out of juice though, be sure to follow the process described above - with one subtle difference.

These levers have a slightly different battery port, and that opens up instead of to the side. To get to the port, pull back the front of the lever hood. 

Here's an image of a 105 lever:

![105 / ST-R7170 Di2 lever batteries](https://assets.bettershifting.com/12_spd_shifter_batteries_257377b1df.jpg)

### Batteries on eBay / Amazon {#linkstobatteries}
If you’re looking to support the site and you like shopping at Eba\y or Amazon, consider using the links below. Any purchase you make will earn the site a small commission, at no cost to you.

- [CR1632 on eBay](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=CR1632&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338714358&customid=checkandreplacebattery&toolid=10001&mkevt=1)
- [CR1632 on Amazon](https://amzn.to/3ERqsTK)

### Questions, comments, leave them here
Did you successfully replace your battery? How long did yours last? 

If there’s anything unclear or you need any help, feel free to leave a comment below, or [send me a message](/contact/)!



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Shimano 12-speed wireless Di2 shifter batteries last about two years, and this page will teach you how to check the battery level and replace the battery itself.

Check Di2 shifter battery level and replace it

Shimano DI2 firmware updates used to be relatively easy - you connect your [SM-BCR2 charger](/component/internal-battery-charger-sm-bcr2/) or [SM-PCE02](/component/pc-linkage-diagnostics-tool-sm-pce02/), run E-Tube Project 3.4.5 of 4.0.4, and [update the firmware](/learn-how-to-update-your-di2-component-firmware/).

If you had a D-fly / Wireless module installed, you could even update firmware using [the mobile app - E-Tube Cyclist](/di2-e-tube-software-and-downloads/).

## 12-speed Di2 firmware updates
Firmware updates for the 12-speed Di2 systems are different. The charger is just a USB cable, and cannot be used to connect the bike to a windows computer. 

Instead, you need either the [SM-PCE02 tool](/component/pc-linkage-diagnostics-tool-sm-pce02/), or use the E-Tube Cyclist mobile app. All 12-speed Di2 series (DURA-ACE R9200, Ultegra R8100, and Di2 R7100) support BluetoothLE/ANT out of the box.

<YouTube videoId="Lq_MpmrNYCw" />

Looks easy, right? Well.. when it comes to the wireless [ST-R9270](/component/dura-ace-disc-brake-wireless-dual-control-lever-st-r9270/), [ST-R8170](/component/ultegra-disc-brake-wireless-dual-control-lever-st-r8170/), and [ST-R7170](/component/105-disc-brake-wireless-dual-control-lever-st-r7170/) hydraulic disc levers, there is a bit of a gotcha - to install firmware updates, they need to be wired to the rest of the system. 

If you don't connect the levers to the rest of the system, you simply cannot update them. Note that this *issue* only applies to the hydraulic disc levers - the rim brake levers are not wireless and are connected by wire by default.

Initially, Shimano said that this would only be a problem the very first time you update the shift levers, and that future updates should be wireless. 

However, [update 4.1.1](https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/e-tube/project/firmware/detail.html?model=ST-R9270) and [update 4.1.2](https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/e-tube/project/firmware/detail.html?model=ST-R9270) cannot be installed fully wireless either. Whether or not future updates can, remains unknown.

## Firmware update using E-Tube Cyclist (Android/iOS) {#updatemobile}
If you're reading this page, you are probably a home-user trying to update their [ST-R9270](/component/dura-ace-disc-brake-wireless-dual-control-lever-st-r9270/), [ST-R8170](/component/ultegra-disc-brake-wireless-dual-control-lever-st-r8170/) or [ST-R7170](/component/105-disc-brake-wireless-dual-control-lever-st-r7170/) using the mobile app, E-Tube Cyclist.

While the app will tell you that there is an update available for your shift levers, it will not let you download and install that update. 

![Cannot update not-wired lever](https://assets.bettershifting.com/cannot_update_lever_not_wired_0737b3b6aa.jpg)

If you do not connect the lever to the rest of the system, the **update** button will be disabled. Let's do that now, and update the shifters.

### How do you connect a wireless lever using wires?
So you have this wireless lever... and you need to connect a wire to it. How do you do that?

**Ultegra** and **DURA-ACE** 12-speed hydraulic disc levers have one SD300 type port and one satellite shifter port. You can use the SD300 port to connect an [EW-SD300](/component/di2-electric-wire-ew-sd300/) wire. 

<LImage alt="SD300 ports on Ultegra and Dura-Ace ports" caption="The bottom port is for satellite shifter use only. Use the top port to update the shifter." src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/update_12_speed_hydraulic_ultegra_duraace_1ffc0df227.jpg" width="1150" height="650" />

The **R7170 105 shifters** do not have any regular E-Tube Ports that you can plug other components into, but that doesn't mean you can't update them. 

There is in fact a port on the side of these levers, used exclusively for updates and diagnostics. 

<LImage alt="ST-R7170 SD300 port" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/update_12_speed_levers_105_r7170_028bfe4e97.jpg" width="1150" height="632" caption="105 Di2 levers do in fact have E-Tube ports. You just need to know where to look. There will be a dummy plug in yours, so it'll look slightly different from the picture." />

The next question is: what do you plug the other end of the wire into?

You've got two options:

- The battery - [BT-DN300](/component/internal-battery-bt-dn300/) has three ports, and only two should be in use
- Use the front derailleur wire and an [EW-JC302 inline junction](/component/inline-2-port-junction-ew-jc302/)

[Rides of Japan](https://www.youtube.com/ridesofjapan) did just this, and of course made a video of the process:

<YouTube videoId="dmGG2P0-5fs" />

### Connect your shift lever to the battery (Ultegra / DURA-ACE only)
This method is great if you can easily get to your battery. Most bike manufacturers put the battery in the seat post, and therefore getting to the battery is pretty easy.

Note down your saddle height if you haven't already, then take out the seat post to get to the battery.

Now take a long (1200mm - 1600mm) [EW-SD300](/component/di2-electric-wire-ew-sd300/) wire. Plug one end into the battery and the other into the shift lever you want to update. 

You can now use the mobile app to update your shift lever. Simply repeat the process for the other lever and you're done.

### Connect your shift lever using the front derailleur wire
If you cannot easily get to your battery, this is a pretty good alternative. We can use the front derailleur wire to connect the Di2 levers to the rest of the system. You need a 1200mm-1600mm [EW-SD300](/component/di2-electric-wire-ew-sd300/) wire and an inline junction (the [EW-JC302](/component/inline-2-port-junction-ew-jc302/) or [EW-JC304](/component/internal-junction-b-ew-jc304/)).

<LImage alt="EW-JC304 and EW-SD300" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/update_12_speed_levers_sd300jc304_96f47f82b8.jpg" width="1150" height="619"  caption="One junction (either JC302 or JC304) and one SD300 wire are required. Two wires and the JC304 is my preferred setup." />

First, disconnect the front derailleur wire. Then take the plastic front derailleur *cover* off and plug the wire into your [EW-JC302](/component/inline-2-port-junction-ew-jc302/) / [EW-JC304](/component/internal-junction-b-ew-jc304/) junction.

<LImage alt="The front derailleur wire plugs into the EW-JC304 junction" width="1150" height="553" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/update_12_speed_levers_jc304_fd_2eeafc1385.jpg" caption="Front derailleur is disconnected, and the wire is plugged into the junction" />

All that's left to do now is to take your [EW-SD300 wire](/component/di2-electric-wire-ew-sd300/), and connect one end of it to the junction and the other end to the shifter you want to update.  If you have two wires and the 4-port junction you can even update both shifters at the same time.

<LImage alt="Shifter connected via EW-JC304 junction" width="1150" height="491" src="https://assets.bettershifting.com/update_12_speed_levers_jc304_shifter_bbadf945d0.jpg" caption="A single shifter connected to a four-port junction" />


That's it! You can now update one shift lever using the mobile app ([Shimano's E-Tube Cyclist manual](https://si.shimano.com/en/um/7J4MA)). Once you've done that, simply connect the wire to the other lever and update that as well.

![Can update a wired lever](https://assets.bettershifting.com/can_update_lever_wired_dae2943ffb.jpg)

Now that the shift lever has been connected by wire, the text "**wired**" appears in the lever image, and the **update** button is enabled.

If yours doesn't show the "**wired**" label, double-check you used the SD300 port, and not the **sprint shifter** (bottom) port. The bottom port **will not work**.

## Update using SM-PCE02 tool {#updatepce02}
Most home users won't own one, but if you do - by all means, go ahead. Update your levers using the [SM-PCE02](/component/pc-linkage-diagnostics-tool-sm-pce02/).

You will need E-Tube Project V5 / Professional, so [download that](/di2-e-tube-software-and-downloads/) if you haven't already. 

![SM-PCE02, EW-SD300, EW-AD305](https://assets.bettershifting.com/pce02_sd300_ad305_unpacked_s_d4d50640ab.jpg)

Also, since the [SM-PCE02](/component/pc-linkage-diagnostics-tool-sm-pce02/) only supports the older EW-SD50 interface, you'd also need the [EW-AD305](/component/di2-electric-wire-adapter-ew-ad305/) adapter and an [EW-SD300](/component/di2-electric-wire-ew-sd300/) wire. 

Connect the [EW-AD305](/component/di2-electric-wire-adapter-ew-ad305/) to your [SM-PCE02](/component/pc-linkage-diagnostics-tool-sm-pce02/), and then plug the [EW-SD300 wire](/component/di2-electric-wire-ew-sd300/) into that. 

You then connect the other end of the [EW-SD300](/component/di2-electric-wire-ew-sd300/) wire to an unused port on the shift lever you want to update, and run E-Tube Project V5/Professional. Just make sure you **do not use** the **bottom port**, that is for satellite shifters only.

Alternatively, you could use **three** [EW-SD300](/component/di2-electric-wire-ew-sd300/) wires and a [four-port EW-JC304 junction](/component/internal-junction-b-ew-jc304/) to connect and update both levers at the same time. It's the more expensive option, and since shift lever updates are not all that common, I'm sticking to the update-one-lever-at-a-time approach.

## All done!
Did that work? If so, you can store the extra wire and junction away for the next update. In case things didn't go as smoothly as you would've liked, keep in mind that your local bike shop will also gladly update the shift levers for you - it should take them about 10-15 minutes.

If you're looking to buy the accessories needed to do the update and feel like supporting the site, I've added (affiliate) links to Amazon, eBay, and Wiggle below - as well as to the component detail pages.

- **Amazon**: [EW-SD300](https://amzn.to/3Ed6CDi) | [Di2 on Amazon.com](https://amzn.to/3xyoNAw)
- **Ebay**: [SM-PCE02](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=sm-pce02&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338714358&customid=update12spfirmware&toolid=10001&mkevt=1) | [EW-AD305](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=ew-ad305&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338714358&customid=update12spfirmware&toolid=10001&mkevt=1) | [EW-SD300](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=ew-sd300&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338714358&customid=update12spfirmware&toolid=10001&mkevt=1) | [EW-JC302](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=ew-jc302&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338714358&customid=update12spfirmware&toolid=10001&mkevt=1)
- **Wiggle**: [EW-AD305](https://tidd.ly/3xyR8Hb) | [EW-SD300](https://tidd.ly/32JACZv) | [EW-JC302](https://tidd.ly/3pfwlER)


Updating 12-speed Di2 R9270/R8170/R7170 shift levers is not as straightforward as you might think. You need either the SM-PCE02, or connect the levers to the rest of the system using an EW-SD300 wire.

Update the firmware on 12-speed Hydraulic Shift levers

Do you have smaller hands than most and do you find the brake levers on your Shimano bike a bit hard to operate? Or are your hands relatively large? 

Don't worry, you can easily change the lever reach and bring the brake levers closer - or move them further away.

You can change your lever reach on all Di2 levers, and it generally works the same for non-Di2 Shimano levers.  All you need is a **2mm hex key**. 

Note that the *reach* is sometimes also referred to as *lever stroke*, especially in older Shimano documentation.

## Change rim brake Di2 lever reach
Since the process is slightly different for rim brake levers and hydraulic disc brake levers, I've split this page up into two small sections. This section describes how to change the reach on the rim brake [ST-6770](/component/ultegra-10-speed-dual-control-lever-st-6770/), [ST-6870](/component/ultegra-dual-control-lever-st-6870/), [ST-R8050](/component/ultegra-dual-control-lever-st-r8050/), [ST-R8150](/component/ultegra-rim-brake-wired-dual-control-lever-st-r8150/), [ST-9070](/component/dura-ace-dual-control-lever-st-9070/), [ST-R9150](/component/dura-ace-dual-control-lever-st-r9150/), and [ST-R9250](/component/dura-ace-rim-brake-wired-dual-control-lever-st-r9250/) levers.

Changing the lever reach (or stroke) on the rim brake levers is easy enough. The first thing you do is pull back the cover to expose the adjustment bolt.

![Pull hood cover to back](https://assets.bettershifting.com/pull_back_from_front_f6bd95de5c.png)

Next, take your **2mm** hex wrench. 

![ST-6870 adjusting](https://assets.bettershifting.com/st_6870_adjust_reach_7ba57f32d9.jpg)

Turn **left** or **counterclockwise** to move the lever outward, or **increase** the reach. This will effectively move the lever further away from the handlebar.

Turn **right** or **clockwise** to move the lever in, or **decrease** the reach. This moves the lever closer, making it easier to grab.

On my Ultegra 6870 lever, the full range of motion (adjustability?) looks like this:

![ST-6870 reach adjustment range](https://assets.bettershifting.com/st_6870_reach_range_ec3b2eee0b.gif)

## Change disc brake Di2 lever reach
This section applies to the hydraulic disc Di2 shift levers: [ST-R785](/component/non-series-hydraulic-disc-brake-lever-st-r785/), [ST-R8070](/component/ultegra-hydraulic-disc-brake-lever-st-r8070/), [ST-R8170](/component/ultegra-disc-brake-wireless-dual-control-lever-st-r8170/), [ST-R9170](/component/dura-ace-hydraulic-disc-brake-dual-control-lever-st-r9170/), [ST-R9270](/component/dura-ace-disc-brake-wireless-dual-control-lever-st-r9270/), and the GRX [ST-RX815](/component/grx-hydraulic-disc-brake-lever-st-rx815/). 

Shimano's hydraulic disc levers have both a *reach* and a *free stroke* adjustment. 

Changing the *reach* will affect how close the brake lever is to the handlebar, while the *free stroke* changes the amount of travel before the brake pads hit the rotor. 

This page is on changing the reach only, but there are plenty of videos on setting up the free stroke on [YouTube](https://youtube.com). Note that if you change the free stroke, that'll also change the initial lever position - and you may need to change your reach afterward as well.

This video by [Rides of Japan](https://www.youtube.com/@ridesofjapan) explains it well:

<YouTube videoId="9TkudgYe0EY" />

### Change reach on R8070, R9170, R7170, R8170, and R9270
Setting up the shifter reach on [ST-R8070](/component/ultegra-hydraulic-disc-brake-lever-st-r8070/), [ST-R8170](/component/ultegra-disc-brake-wireless-dual-control-lever-st-r8170/), [ST-R9170](/component/dura-ace-hydraulic-disc-brake-dual-control-lever-st-r9170/), and [ST-R9270](/component/dura-ace-disc-brake-wireless-dual-control-lever-st-r9270/) is easy - you don't even have to move the lever cover.

The adjustment bolt for the **reach** is on the inside of the lever itself, as shown in the **left** half of this image:

![ST-R8070 reach adjust photo](https://assets.bettershifting.com/st_r8070_reach_adjust_d1ebcb28b1.jpg)
(the bolt shown on the right is the **free stroke** adjustment bolt)  
  
Turning the bolt clockwise increases the lever reach, while turning it counterclockwise decreases the reach. 

![ST-R8070 reach adjustability](https://assets.bettershifting.com/st_r8070_adjust_range_ee7dfb120c.gif)

### Lever reach on ST-R785 and ST-RX815
In order to change the reach on these levers, you'll have to pull back the hood cover as shown below.

![Pull hood cover to back](https://assets.bettershifting.com/pull_back_from_front_f6bd95de5c.png)

Next, locate the reach adjustment bolt. On ST-RX815 it is located on top of the lever:

![ST-RX815 lever reach bolt](https://assets.bettershifting.com/st_rx815_lever_reach_bolt_81bc618914.png)

Turn clockwise to decrease lever reach. Turn anticlockwise to increase the reach, or move the lever away from the handlebar. Use a **2mm** hex wrench.

The ST-R785 lever reach adjustment bolt works the same as the others - turn clockwise to increase the reach, and turn counterclockwise to decrease it. Note that you'll have to use a flat-head screwdriver.

![ST-R785 adjust bolt image](https://assets.bettershifting.com/st_r785_reach_adjust_screw_92b60346a7.png)

## Question, comments, suggestions
That's it! You should now be able to set up the reach as you like. 

Are things unclear, or are you missing something? Please let me know! You can [send me a message](/contact/), or leave a comment below.

small_adjust-reach-stroke-featured.jpg

thumbnail_adjust-reach-stroke-featured.jpg

adjust-reach-stroke-featured.jpg

Do you have small hands? Or extra large hands? Read this page to figure out how to change your Shimano Di2 shift lever (or shifter) reach.

Change your Di2 lever free stroke and reach

Most users will only ever [pair 12-speed wireless shifters](/installation-guide/pair-12-speed-wireless-di2-shifters/), and will never have to unpair their shifters.

It’s good to know how to unpair wireless di2 shifters though, and the process isn’t immediately obvious.

### When to unpair shifters
If you ever have to replace a shifter, I recommend unpairing the old one. Since there is a maximum of **four** wireless shifters, you don’t necessarily have to… but the E-Tube Cyclist app will always show all *paired* shifters in the app. 

It makes sense to keep that list as clean as possible.

Also, I have received messages from users whose shifters stopped working after firmware updates. In all of these cases, unpairing and then [re-pairing the wireless shifters](/installation-guide/pair-12-speed-wireless-di2-shifters/) was the fix.

## Unpairing 12-speed Shifters
There are two methods to unpair wireless Di2 shift levers: using [E-Tube Project for Windows](/di2-e-tube-software-and-downloads/) and using the [E-Tube Cyclist mobile app](/di2-e-tube-software-and-downloads/#etpcyclist).

The Windows E-Tube Project only works with the [SM-PCE02](/component/pc-linkage-diagnostics-tool-sm-pce02/), so most home users will be using the mobile app. I’ll explain that method first, and then briefly show how to unpair shifters using the [SM-PCE02](/component/pc-linkage-diagnostics-tool-sm-pce02/).

## Use E-Tube Cyclist to unpair shifters
If you haven’t already, download and install [E-Tube Cyclist](https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/e-tube/project.html). Make sure your phone’s Bluetooth is enabled, and start E-Tube Cyclist.

Next press and hold the **button** on the **rear derailleur** for **0.5-2** seconds to put the bike in Bluetooth **Connection Mode**. The LED will flash blue.

![Unpair Wireless Shifters: function button](https://assets.bettershifting.com/unpair_12sp_wireless_shifters_rd_button_and_led_80f304abd4.png)

The bike should now appear in E-Tube Cyclist. If you’ve connected to it before, simply tap the bike to connect to it.

If you haven’t connected to this bike before, you can register this as a new bike and store its information for later connections.

In this case, I’m connecting to the **BetterShifting.com** bike.

 ![Unpair Wireless Shifters: connect to the bike](https://assets.bettershifting.com/unpair_12sp_wireless_shifters_etc1_connect_to_bike_f8090e1486.jpg)

After connecting to the bike, open the **Customize** tab.

Unpairing a shifter is done through the *Add wireless switch* screen.

![Unpair Wireless Shifters: Add wireless switch](https://assets.bettershifting.com/unpair_12sp_wireless_shifters_etc2_add_wireless_switch_c491efafb9.jpg)

The next screen shows all currently paired shifters. There are four *slots*, indicating that you can pair up to **four** wireless shifters.

To unpair a shifter, tap the blue circle. E-Tube Cyclist will ask you whether or not you want to unpair the switch, and then remove it from the list.

![Unpair Wireless Shifters: unpair a switch](https://assets.bettershifting.com/unpair_12sp_wireless_shifters_etc3_unpair_shifter_5a06737a82.jpg)

I unpaired all shifters and then used that red **disconnect** button to disconnect the bike.

![Unpair Wireless Shifters: unpaired all shifters](https://assets.bettershifting.com/unpair_12sp_wireless_shifters_etc4_done_unpairing_fe334a537c.jpg)

Remember to always disconnect when you’re done. If you don’t, the bike stays in Bluetooth connection mode.

<YouTube videoId="c77ZmcrcjNc" />

## Unpair shifters using E-Tube Project for Windows
If you’re lucky enough to have access to the [SM-PCE02](/component/pc-linkage-diagnostics-tool-sm-pce02/), you can use that and [E-Tube Project Professional](/di2-e-tube-software-and-downloads/) to unpair wireless shifters. Note that you’ll need an [SD300](/component/di2-electric-wire-ew-sd300/) type link cable for the [SM-PCE02](/component/pc-linkage-diagnostics-tool-sm-pce02/), or the [EW-AD305 adapter](/component/di2-electric-wire-adapter-ew-ad305/).

Connect the [PCE02](/component/pc-linkage-diagnostics-tool-sm-pce02/) to your computer or laptop, and connect the other end to a spare port on the battery or plug it into the rear derailleur directly. 

Then start E-Tube Project and connect to the bike.

Like before, you’ll need the **Customize** screen to unpair shifters. Simply open the page, and select the *add wireless switch* option on the left.

You can then easily unpair shifters by clicking the *Delete* button.

![Unpair Wireless Shifters: E-Tube Project](https://assets.bettershifting.com/unpair_12sp_wireless_shifters_etp_windows_d5f58bab7a.jpg)

## All done
That’s it! Easy, right? Questions, comments? Leave a message below, or [send me an email](/contact/).

Unpairing 12-speed Di2 wireless shift levers can be done using the mobile app or using the SM-PCE02 and E-Tube Project for Windows. This page describes both methods of unpairing wireless shifters.

Disc Brake Dual Control Lever (Wireless)

Wireless and wired

Updating wireless levers

Details & Specifications

Shopping links

More images